First R33 - Just Some Concerns / Questions And Confirmation

[Glennno]

Hi All,

Just got my first R33 on the weekend and drove it back from Perth to Albany. (400KM trip at 110KPH).

The drive went very well and i am very happy with how it drives and rolls on with power.

Car: 1997 S2 R33 Manual GTST

-Haltech Platinum Pro

-GT3071R at 17PSI with Profec B Spec II on high boost

-Nismo 555cc

-All supporting mods

1. I was told low boost is 7PSI and high boost is 17PSI. (Dyno sheet shows it hits 17.5PSI and then slowly drops over the rev range) - Is 7PSi actually achievable by the Profec B Spec II or is it likely to be the boost pressure of the actuator? (No boost gauge as of yet, havent figured out how to change KPA to PSI on the Profec, but its hidden under the steering column so couldnt see it anyway).

2. Is this a safe boost? Please note, i wont be drifting but if it is safe, would like to be able to use that power from time to time without being worried of blowing a head gasket or blowing a motor.

3. The car on start up will rev to 1100RPM, then down to about 300 and then sometimes stall and sometimes kick back up to 1100RPM and then stabilise. If it keeps running, it will always stabilise and will then be fine. Pull up to a stop, it will always be perfect. When it goes to 300, if i give it a little rev, it will then just act normal and stabilise again and wont stall. Is this likely tuning of the Haltech? Once the car has stabilised which happens very quickly, it is then 100% fine for the rest of the drive.

4. It feels like when i come off the accelerator fully and then come back onto the accelerator, it is very touchy and jumpy if im only every so slightly hitting the accelerator. When im travelling at a set speed, my foot seems to be in that area of regularly coming on and off the accelerator so, it sounds like im a young kid bunny hopping my first car. It goes from normal running noise to very quiet, to normal running noise to quiet and feels a bit funny. if i go a little further on the accelerator, its perfectly fine and i start increasing speed. Could this maybe be slack on the accelerator cable? Tuning? Something to just get used to?

5. Oil pressure - I've never had an oil pressure gauge but this dash has the standard oil pressure so im trying to better understand it. Is it very accurate? It seems to sit on number 6 (which is 2 above half and 2 below full) on a cold start and then as it warms up, it gets closer to 4 and will then sit ever so slightly under 4 when warm. Am i right to believe that the number 8 (max it can go) is bad and the lowest it can go is horrible?

6. If there is any sort of issue with the motor that occurs, is the Haltech smart enough to cut power or do something to prevent damage? my dash has the HICAS light taken out and im worried that perhaps any form or engine light may or may not be in working condition. Would hate to go out for a drive and the Haltech not protect the motor should something happen.

Thanks all. All in all, loving this car. So much nicer than my 3 tonne 3L diesel patrol and its a blast to drive!

[KiwiRS4T]

I would set it to 17psi (or more) and leave it there. Never understood the wish for multiple boost settings.

Stock oil pressure gauge is likely not that accurate any more - replace it with an aftermarket item.

I know the Link has the capability to monitor a number of parameters and shut the engine down if they are exceeded. Don't know if the Haltech has the capability but obviously it will only do so if set up that way.

[Glennno]

Thanks, i guess i would feel better setting it to 17PSI and leaving it there if i was sure that it's relatively safe for me to use that sort of power on a regular basis? The last thing i want to do is pop a motor or be up for a head-off job.

(I know it depends on the tune) but, if it IS tuned right and my power / boost level is very safe, then i will leave it just on the high boost setting. If you come back and say that i might want to be careful using that sort of boost on a regular occurrence then i will continue to switch the boost levels. Chances are if my right foot has access to the power, im going to use it. Im only a man at the end of the day and we men tend to use what we have.

Thanks for the heads up on the gauge. Might perhaps look into getting a dual pillar gauge holder or something. Might be cool to have boost and oil pressure for safety.

Hmm thanks. Might have to do some Haltech research. Might even need to have a chat to a tuner! I'd feel safer using the cars potential knowing that the ECU "can" help in some scenarios.

[niZmO_Man]

1. Yeah, most likely gate pressure so your boost controller doesn't do any "bleeding" to 17psi

2. As long as your tune is good and you use the right fuel, you'll be fine. You can regulate boost with your right foot.

3. Maybe AAC valve needs cleaning (or whatever they're called on the RB25).

4. Too hard to diagnose, but maybe someone else can help.

5. That's fine.

6. You'd hope so.

Happy motoring!

*edit* hmm posts before me, meh I'll leave mine.

[Glennno]

Thanks! The more the merrier Appreciate the replies!

Might checkout that valve.. remember seeing something about SR20's and that valve name... I dont think it would be as its only start up, but will do a little research on that topic and see what symptoms are. Im wondering if its maybe just got something to do with fuel on start up with the Haltech ECU. I remember going through the tuning receipts from the WA workshop and remember reading something about tuning issues on start up. Looks like 4 years ago all cylinders got 160 on a compression test. Not sure if this is good or not but assume its better than 0

Might just leave it on the high boost setting then and use my right foot. i guess low boost mode can be good for if anyone else is driving? Looks like all i need to do on the controller is turn a dial to further increase or reduce boost. (Within actuator and turbo hardware spec of course).

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

It's not the boost dimension that dictates if a it's safe or not. Things such as afr, timing, intake air temp, fuel quality etc. All have a part in this.

Also that throttle phenomenon you're experience is a poorly defined throttle pump table in the haltech, seems like the person or shop who has did the tune paid zero attention to that table.

[Glennno]

Thanks for the clarification! Would it be wise to take the car to my tuner of choice and get them to play around with the throttle pump table? All the work was done by one of the biggest tuners in WA so i am a little upset they didnt spend a little extra time on it. (Although, this was in 2012).

Could it perhaps be the pump itself was really hard to tune into the Haltech? I believe it is a VDO 260LPH or 270LPH.. Never head of VDO myself. Back in my S14 days, it was Bosch or Walbro. I wonder if the poorly defined throttle pump table could always be causing my starting issues? Its sort of like its not getting the 100% correct amount of fuel on start up but within a couple of seconds, shes all fine and happy to idle.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

you need a wideband o2, then feed it back into the haltech

then work on your transient and monitor AFR.. it shouldn't drop more than 1 point.. say if you're cruising at 14.7 (stoich) or so.. and you mash the pedal or tap it, ideally you want the AFR to drop between 0.5 and 1 afr.. in some instances where it's too lean, the car will buckle too.

[Glennno]

Thanks, this seems like something that is probably going to be better for a tuning workshop to setup for me! Most of that went over my head im affraid!

[Glennno]

Just doing some research - Am i right to believe that the cars come standard with a narrow band O2? or do they not come with an O2 at all? Just read on the Haltech website the difference between narrow band and wide band. Not entirely sure how this affects start up and the car running on very low accelerator but, im sure it does!

[admS15]

Yes your car comes with a narrow band 02. Even if you had a wideband it takes around 30 secs to warm up, so it wouldn't be used on initial start up. Your narrowband should be active at idle and at light load cruise. To check that your factory 02 is still there and connected have a look for it. It should be fitted into the dump pipe off the back of the turbo.

[Glennno]

Thanks, so its more likely to be the throttle pump map or something to do with the Haltech as to the starting issues?

I have a feeling i saw in a receipt somewhere that the O2 was replaced. Might be worth checking what it was replaced with and re-reading the receipts.

There is definitely an O2 sensor in the dump, i remember seeing it when looking at the car in Perth before i bought it! Just, not sure if its genuine Nissan or if its narrow or wideband. Will check the receipts. It might not be that at all because when i do have the accelerator down enough for normal increrase in acceleration, its perfectly fine, even maintaining the speed, its fine its just really really touchy if i come off of the accelerator pedal 100% and then come back a small amount

[admS15]

Take it to a tuner familiar with haltech and get him to put it on the dyno and diagnose and adjust as required. You will then get a clear picture of what your dealing with.

[Glennno]

Thanks, that seems like great advice. Might be heading up in a couple months so, will get it sorted then.

[KiwiRS4T]

Quite normal to ditch the O2 sensor with an aftermarket ECU. It could still be the narrowband original sensor or maybe it has been replaced with a wideband or maybe it is not connected to anything. If it is still plugged in try disconnecting it and see if it makes any difference.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

plug laptop in, see if the AFR is displayed

[Glennno]

Is it just a USB to serial cable? Where would i find the connection to the Haltech to plug in? Computers are my thing so, i would be confident plugging a laptop in to see if i can view real time information.

Good to know that the O2 may not be plugged in, may be original or may be a wideband. Didnt check if it was plugged in Just saw it was physically there!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Platinum Pro is just USB A to USB B, aka the USB cable for your printer.

Then go to Haltech and download their software, install, plug up, load up software hit connect and bam!

[Glennno]

Thanks heaps! Got heaps of those USB printer cables at work.. Would i be right to assume its in the passenger foot well?

Had a quick look at Haltech's website. Looks like theres a "Data Logger" and "ECU Manager". Looks like ECU manager is the one i want, i'll just be careful not to play with any variables!

I've definitely got a better feeling of my issues. Starting issue is basically a cold start only issue or, not fully warm start issue. If i try to give it revs, more times than not, it coughs and doesnt take to the accelerator well. If i piss it off while trying to start it, it will turn over a LOT before finally starting. On a 100% warm start, its fine. If i drive a km or two after a cold start and try start the car a few minutes later, it has some of the cold start funny-ness but is generally fine. So, the warmer it is, the easier to start.

With my issue and driving, i think ive also narrowed that down a bit. It seems to be less than 1500rpm and it gets a little hit and miss, sort of like a flat spot. Sometimes it will cough once but not enough for it to really be noticeable. If i drive at 60KPH in 4th, i get the touchy issue i was talking about. If im in 3rd at 60 (Where the revs are higher) its mostly all fine. Biggest thing i can put it down to, this car doesnt like going slow!

It also turns out my power output was incorrect. Instead of making the 341HP at 17.5 PSI, it actually got retuned later to make 360HP at 16PSI. I will try to figure out how to upload pictures and will upload some photos i took of the receipts that the previous owner had. And by the way, car had a new NGK NTK O2 OZA395-E2 lambda sensor put in, in 2012. I assume this is a narrowband O2?

I also read on the documents that i will try to upload:

"Tune map to get fuel 11.5:1 at full boost". <-- Is this good?

"Knock control on, temp compensations all on and set, transient throttle reset and much better. Cold start fixed with much more fuel added on start up and post start" <-- Now, Is the knock control and temp compensations a good thing? Are they for safety of the motor? Looks like the car may have had cold start issues to begin with. I wonder if the added fuel is chocking the car?

[Glennno]

Here are the images, hopefully you guys can access them. Couldn't figure out how to upload D: