Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lel discussion time.

I run BCPR6ES-11 (1.1mm gap) with Yellow Jackets. Standard RB26 motor standard boost. Works fine, no issues, even when overheating during a track day.

If you're on a budget or have a standard engine, yellow jackets are fine.

From the consensus around here, if you're pushing you're engine towards 300kW, best to go OEM coils and 7ES plugs.

^^lol. You can lookup the SAU yj feedback thread if u can find it. I wonder where it went. Rolls eyes. To op, buy what your budget allows for but remember you get what you pay for and poor man often pays twice. Splitfires can be found for around 550 and OEM around the 600 mark. The decision is yours. China or Japan.

You can get YJs for only $400 including express post. I have them in stock and post daily. These are actually really good for high boost applications despite what others say.

OEM and Splitfire are too pricey due to middlemen markups and over-inflated wholesale prices.

YJs have been on the market for around 7 years now. Ive sold heaps to thousands of people all over the world.

There's tons of positive feedback on them. Here's my ebay feedback to prove it - see here

Nothing but good comments on the YJs and Im also a trader here on SAU.

Buy YJs direct from the manufacturer (ME) and save your hard earned for other mods.

I am a trader on SAU and I have every right to sell and promote my products.

in the appropriate 'for sale - traders' section. Keep flogging your horse in the open forums and expect to get hosed; pls no more tears when you do.

To OP re spark plugs, everyone says use coppers and just change them more, but I've had less misfires/smoother idle with iridiums, and they've last me frkn years, and work out better value. So not really any reason to pay less and have to keep changing plugs IMO, but up to you of course.

in the appropriate 'for sale - traders' section. Keep flogging your horse in the open forums and expect to get hosed; pls no more tears when you do.

I have no idea what you are talking about? Im not into flogging horses? Sounds gay,

To OP re spark plugs, everyone says use coppers and just change them more, but I've had less misfires/smoother idle with iridiums, and they've last me frkn years, and work out better value. So not really any reason to pay less and have to keep changing plugs IMO, but up to you of course.

My tuner told me to get PFR7G- for best results with tune. Done about 2 years on them so far.

Middle men, manufacturers? I think these guys are ripping off your brand mate. lol. hope u got a patent on that colour. They even offer 24 month quality warranty.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/222124001105?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They work on really anything track related now. They do my mates r35 gtr and it's a weapon of a car.
    • I use the penrite 600f in my cars and have had no issues even at Townsville v8s when I drove that but I bled fluid end of day for just in case. Good value and a about 38-40 on sale. Use castrol srf on the supercars and no need to Bleed brakes over a race weekend. Do the 1000km with no issues. Over 120 a bottle I seen at repco. A quality brake pad is always a good starting point the ebc stuff I've seen let go after 2 sessions with heavier cars. I'd be going to a decent track pad and maybe those porsche air guides on the control arm to help with some air over the rotor. Helps on 86/brz with stock callipers.  
    • yeah I've never understood that either.... And to answer an earlier question, I write the date on open bottles and throw them if more than 12 months old (which they almost always are, because I don't need to bleed them unless I'm changing lines/calipers etc in between)
    • Nah, the one that hit the boot was a big steel locker, around 6 foot height, 4 foot wide and 2 foot deep, empty it weighs about 15kg and had about that amount of stuff in it The photo didn't give a good representation of the actual damage, the large ding on the passenger side was about a inch deep, the one on the driver was about 1/2 inch deep, right on the curve, where the inner boot frame doesn't let you get behind it with a dolly Basically the same issue with getting behind the damage on the centre of the boot We could have filled it all with bog, but my OCD would be triggered every time I looked at it, knowing what hides beneath  As for the locker, I did get the shits with it and put it in the scap metal bin, but, I pulled it out and it is now sitting in the garage at home full of car servicing stuff, cleaning gear and random tools, it's going to pay for it's indiscretions
    • Whilst I typically don't cheap out on things, if I can save some money, like $1000, on a clean straight panel, that gives me $1000 to spend on other stuff, basically free money really 🤔 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...