Jump to content
SAU Community

Tein HA - Damper and Height Settings?

riggaP
 Share

Recommended Posts

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I've picked me up a set of Tein HA coilovers and would like to get a few opinions on what damper and height settings I should use.

I want the rears to be as grippy as possible because I enjoy going to the drag strip. All I expect from the front is to out perform the stockies in corners.

Any help would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46500-tein-ha-damper-and-height-settings/
Share on other sites
riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, I was kinda thinking the same myself.

I dug up these settings:

...here are the recommended rear suspension settings for

a road/drag GTST

Wheel centre to guard – 350 mm

Camber – 0 to 0.5 degrees negative

Toe – in 0 to 0.5 mm each side

Spring rate - not over 200 lbs per inch

Stabiliser bar - not over 24 mm diameter solid bar

Remove the HICAS and replace with solid bar.

The only thing that’s troubling me now is the spring rate. I'm sure these spings are higher than 200lbs. The Tein website states that the damper rate can be adjusted from "stock" to "N1 race car". My next question is how does the spring rate effect the damper rates? Can a tougher spring be compensated with a softer damper rate?

It seems obvious (to me) that setting the damper rate to the softer end of the scale would be the way to go?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
The only thing that’s troubling me now is the spring rate. I'm sure these spings are higher than 200lbs. The Tein website states that the damper rate can be adjusted from "stock" to "N1 race car". My next question is how does the spring rate effect the damper rates? Can a tougher spring be compensated with a softer damper rate?

It seems obvious (to me) that setting the damper rate to the softer end of the scale would be the way to go?

Sorry riggaP, you CAN NOT compensate for hard springs by backing off the damper rate in the shocks. Simplistically the spring has a rate in compression (sometime called bump or, in Janglish, bound) and most adjustable shocks have adjustable damper rates for extension (sometimes called rebound). The rebound damping needs to be sufficient to control the spring rate, otherwise you drive down the street looking like a pogo stick. So by backing of the shock rate you just make it worse.

My suggestion, as always, is to get the right spring rate, in the case of a GTST destined for the drags, that means keeping the spring rate as close to 200 lbs as possible.

In comparison to making more engine power, springs are cheap, for less than $200 you can improve the 1/4 times by more than $2K spent on the engine would.

Hope that helps :D

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Whiteline can make almost any spring, coil overs are certainly not a problem. All they need is the two main dimensions, being the inside diameter of the coil and the free height. They can then design them up using whatever spring rate you want. They are obviously not "off the shelf" there are simply too many possible combinations. So you may have to wait a week or two while they are made.

Hope that helps :)

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I put the HA's on yesterday and I must say that I'm impressed. I have the car at a legal height, with the damper set 4 clicks from squishy, and she handles great. Traction off the line has not really been affected, which isnt a bad thing considering how much harder the springs are.

SK you were spot on about the "pogo stick" effect on the super squishy setting :) so I'm definately going to get some softer springs. 200lbs for the rears and what do you recommend for the front?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I put the HA's on yesterday and I must say that I'm impressed. I have the car at a legal height, with the damper set 4 clicks from squishy, and she handles great. Traction off the line has not really been affected, which isnt a bad thing considering how much harder the springs are.

SK you were spot on about the "pogo stick" effect on the super squishy setting :) so I'm definately going to get some softer springs. 200lbs for the rears and what do you recommend for the front?

There are so many answers ot that one, based on, what do you use the car for?

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Primary use is a daily driver. My car will see everyday roads far more than any drag strip or track. However, I enjoy going to the drags so I want the rears to be as grippy as possible off the line. I plan to go on a few track days in the future so I suppose a spring rate that handles really well yet is comfortable enough to absorb minor pot holes, and not bounce over speed humps etc.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

Cheers SK, will have a chat with them.

My car is pretty stable and predictable on the track, since i havent taken it down since the Tein's went on. however i use full hard front and 12 clicks back!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...