Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Had a quick look over my engine bay today to just make sure everything is doing okay... I noticed that the outer surface of the timing belt is excessively wearing against the tensioner bearing to the point where the edges of the belt are getting sticky.

Some background information... The motor is a rb3025 and I'm running the two tensioner setup with a dayco 152 tooth belt. This motor was freshly built last year and I've only done about 3500km's since.

Has anybody ever had this problem before? Does anybody know what may be causing this problem?

Thanks in advance guys!

d61f357068ceb3d8d327ec626ff45c34.jpg

When it idles is there any wine? As if a supercharger type sound? Normally it can only be heard when warm. If so our 26/30's timing belt was simply too tight, replaced cam gears and timing belt and backed it off a notch; no worries.

Wasn't sprayed with TAC2 or something was it?

Honestly feels like it was! Lol

I definitely didn't spray anything on it when I installed it. There is abit of oil build up around the bung that I've put in place of the VCT solenoid but the black crap that's building up on the belt is just way too tacky to pass as oil build up.

It seriously feels like that black gasket maker paste...

I'm gunna have to replace the whole timing kit - timing belt is way too serious to be overlooked.

Could be rubbing on the timing belt cover. Mine did the same.

Front top cover isn't on... Can I ask did the residue it was creating feel tacky sticky. Like I couldn't get the black shit of my hands without giving them a decent scrub in mechanics soap.

It could possibly be rubbing on the bottom cover or on one of the bearings...

Thanks for the opinions! Really trying to get as much info as I can before I replace the timing kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
    • Sounds like it is rotational in the driveline. CV? Tailshaft CB? Also.....didn't you just pay to have that bit painted and put on the car?
    • Yeah, when I dialled my idle down, given how much time I spent idling at the lights in traffic on my daily commute, the effect on overall fuel consumption was absolutely noticeable.
    • Emissions, fuel consumption, heat, noise, etc. most likely.
×
×
  • Create New...