Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have an r33 gtst which i am hoping to bring to around 230-240rwkw and keep lag minimal.

Current mods are:

10psi boost

Full 3 inch exhaust

Apexi pod filter

Blitz return flow cooler

Gtr fuel pump

Car is making 180atw

Upcoming mods:

Power fc

Bigger injectors

High flow turbo

Z32 afm

so my questions are.

1. Is it worth tracking down a r34 turbo to highflow over a r33 one? I heard the 34 can flow better but is it much laggier?

2. What size injectors should i be going for and any other mods needed to reach this power level.

3. Does anyone know a good tuner in melbourne, located in west suburbs but willing to travel.

Any help is very much appreciated im fairly new to skylines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465051-r33-gtst-a-few-questions/
Share on other sites

You're in the right place.

21U Highflow and Adaptronic ECU from Hypergear in Somerton.

Injectors from Scotty.

Get it fitted up in Dandenong at Forced Motorworx and tuned by Trent @ Status Tuning in Keysborough.

The 21U R33 turbocharger is super responsive, that supports an average of 260rwkws on P98 fuel, 20psi @ 3500RPM.

The R34 turbocharger has an larger rear housing that is capable of making more power, handles more timing, we can also high flow it using our ceramic ball bearing system thats brings the optimum throttle response out of it. The turbocharger it self is capable of supporting the 270rwkws region in average, 20psi @ 3650RPM CBB or 3800RPM plain. If you have both turbos available, in my opinion OP6 is an better pick.

The 21U R33 turbocharger is super responsive, that supports an average of 260rwkws on P98 fuel, 20psi @ 3500RPM.

The R34 turbocharger has an larger rear housing that is capable of making more power, handles more timing, we can also high flow it using our ceramic ball bearing system thats brings the optimum throttle response out of it. The turbocharger it self is capable of supporting the 270rwkws region in average, 20psi @ 3650RPM CBB or 3800RPM plain. If you have both turbos available, in my opinion OP6 is an better pick.

Pm sent

Thanks for all the info guys.

I will pm hypergear

Isn't 1000cc injectors overkill though? I was thinking i would only need around 555ccs

There's no point messing about with shitty old school injectors in the 550cc range. The modern Bosch ones will idle better than the crappy old ones even at twice the size. Plus then you will NEVER need to upgrade them, regardless of what you do (within reason).

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Guys, I'm new to SAU, I'm actually buying a mates 33gts25t in roughly 3 weeks(cheers tax). I believe he's a member just not sure of his user name.

Anyway, I have a few questions seeing as this will be the second boosted car I've owned, first being a GT forester(let's not get into that) lol.

So basically we've done some minor mods and whatnot to it since I've been friends with him, and we aren't quite sure of the KW figure. Haven't been bothered to pay for a dyno.. Probably roughly 180-90ish

I know it's got the usual tasteful mods..

That being..

*Blitz Return Flow Front Mount

*3 inch cat back

*Walbro 255L pump(I believe)

*NGK Plugs

*Profec B2

Now when I get it I plan to go 3" turbo back.

Any tips or hints on how to get it around 220KW's without spending an arm or leg?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

I was considering a Nistune.. Not sure what everyone's take is on them but I know they're roughly 500 brand new.

Well it will be sliding at some point, but casually not everyday.

i thought about a 2540 upgrade but I've heard some bad shit about them.

Contemplating going Bosch 500cc also.

Not sure on the AFM though.

Obvious place to point you for a turbo is Hypergear. Look at the Hypergear thread. All of it. The 21U highflow will do up towards 250rwkW. You will need the Nistune of course and it's a sensible choice. It's less easy on R33s but at least it's not as bad as it used to be. You should look into what it actually takes to achieve it (effort and cost wise) then decide if any of the other options make any sense to you (such as an old PFC, or an Adaptronic, to name a couple of options). You will need injectors to make the best use of the turbo. Likewise a Z32 AFM (if you stick with Nistune or PFC).

Already messaged Hypergear. I was going to hi-flow the T25, but on second thoughts seemed to be a waste of money as such.

I'm not sure why everyone leans towards a power fc these days.. Majority of the lads I know that have stageas or skylines always have the fc. What's the difference? Besides the obvious hand controller which gives you all the readings.

I'd prefer to spend less money on a Nistune because I'm not building a weapon that has no purpose of being road driven, as it can't be driven to its full potential, and well having a skyline with a reading of 600kws at a drift meet is pretty pointless, as long as it holds sideways then that's all that matters really.

Already messaged Hypergear. I was going to hi-flow the T25, but on second thoughts seemed to be a waste of money as such.

I'm not sure why everyone leans towards a power fc these days.. Majority of the lads I know that have stageas or skylines always have the fc. What's the difference? Besides the obvious hand controller which gives you all the readings.

I'd prefer to spend less money on a Nistune because I'm not building a weapon that has no purpose of being road driven, as it can't be driven to its full potential, and well having a skyline with a reading of 600kws at a drift meet is pretty pointless, as long as it holds sideways then that's all that matters really.

Probably because Power FC are cheap these days and if you want to Nistune an R33 you have to find a suitable Z32 ecu and set up the VCT control (if applicable).

Already messaged Hypergear. I was going to hi-flow the T25, but on second thoughts seemed to be a waste of money as such.

I'm not sure why everyone leans towards a power fc these days.. Majority of the lads I know that have stageas or skylines always have the fc. What's the difference? Besides the obvious hand controller which gives you all the readings.

I'd prefer to spend less money on a Nistune because I'm not building a weapon that has no purpose of being road driven, as it can't be driven to its full potential, and well having a skyline with a reading of 600kws at a drift meet is pretty pointless, as long as it holds sideways then that's all that matters really.

I don't see how a hg high flow is a waste of money. 250-260rwkw on 98 and 300-310 on e85 and full boost by 3.4-3.5k rpm for $850 and is a 100% bolt on affair, no spacers or other bull shit required. I don't believe you will find any other turbo in that price range and unless you are chasing massive HP its a no brainer for most. Hypergear also does excellent pricing on adaptronic ECU's if you buy a turbo from him. You won't require an AFM or boost controller with one of them either, they do all the fancy crap, flex fuel, wb input, launch control and the customer service and support from adaptronic is phenomenol. My 2c.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...