Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Had a bit of a look on the forum and I did see the wheel fitment thread, however no one was running/I didn't go through enough pages, to see the fitment I was looking at getting for the car I have.

Does anyone have pictures of 18x9.5 +38 WITHOUT Spacers on an R33 GTST?

Looking to see fitment on both Front & Rear. Really want Enkei RPF1's but I feel like the 18x9.5 +15 will be poke-city...

Then again, I feel like 18x9.5 +38 will sit too far in -_-

Points if they are RPF1 but any 18x9.5 +38 rim will do.

Cheers! & if there is any thread that already has this, please link me to it and I'll take this down!

post-104024-0-63091200-1464768002_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465117-r33-gtst-enkei-rpf1-fitment/
Share on other sites

I had 18x 9.5 +30 with rolled guards and had to go 245's all around so i'm guessing + 15 will need some camber adjustments and similar tyre width, GTR spec is 18 x 9.0 +30 which is like the bar as far as a good snug fitment.. beyond that means skinny tyres id say.. but i havnt explored it like the guys on the wheel/tyre thread, the +38 can be done though with 265's as far as ive seen and 10inch wide ..

I had 18x 9.5 +30 with rolled guards and had to go 245's all around so i'm guessing + 15 will need some camber adjustments and similar tyre width, GTR spec is 18 x 9.0 +30 which is like the bar as far as a good snug fitment.. beyond that means skinny tyres id say.. but i havnt explored it like the guys on the wheel/tyre thread, the +38 can be done though with 265's as far as ive seen and 10inch wide ..

------

So you think I could fit:

Front - 18x9.5 +38

Rear - 18x10 +38

And have them inside the guards with good rubber? I don't want it to sit too far inside the guards but I also don't want poke-city -_-

  • 1 year later...
On ‎6‎/‎3‎/‎2016 at 0:40 PM, MC-WOSHY said:

------

So you think I could fit:

Front - 18x9.5 +38

Rear - 18x10 +38

And have them inside the guards with good rubber? I don't want it to sit too far inside the guards but I also don't want poke-city -_-

I have rolled guards on a 34 and a slight pull which is considered to have about the same as a 33 (generally speaking, i.e y ou will also need roll and a pull)

I have 9.5 at the front with +27 and it is perfect. So if you want extended studs and a 10mm spacer this will clear just fine. I have 265's all round but the front can be made to fit, but I think you'll be hitting suspension components stock with that fitment.

In short, doing my maths with my own car leads me to believe you absolutely will need a spacer. Yes, I too wish the RPF1 had a decent offset for GTT/GTST owners in 9.5.

Or even 9+22. This size is also perfect but only comes in 17....

  • 4 weeks later...

Can almost guarantee that 18 x 9.5 +38 will rub on the cast iron knuckle/strut thing (cant remember the name of it for the life of me) on full lock up front, My 18x9.5 +35 (not rpf01s though) required spacers to sit flush and to avoid inside of the rim hitting the cast strut on full lock.. The only real options for decent fitment with the sizes in that chart you have there is 18x9 +35 or 18x8.5 +30 for the front and 18x10 +38 or 18x9.5 +38 for the rear.. 

  • 4 years later...
On 13/11/2021 at 2:02 PM, shubby0901 said:

Old as thread but what were thoughts about 18x9.5 + 15? Will these poke alot? Obv rolled guards and camber adjustment

Will fit with camber and max 235 tyre size depending on how low you are. 

  • 1 year later...

I recently bought 18x9.5 +38 rpf1s for my r34. Just done a test fit front and rear. Rears fit nice. Front hit the brake caliper. This was fitting the rim without a tyre on. Looks like you can get away with 10mm spacer to clear the brakes. Not sure what will happen once I put the tyres on if it’s going to hit anything else on lock 

The 18x9 + 35 exist for this reason. - Though for my calcs these will hit the uprights. I have 18x9 +30 and I'm pretty sure I don't have 5mm to spare... more like... 2mm...

9.5+38 is an obvious no, and would slam into the uprights and I'm very suprised that the caliper is the only problem!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...