Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have my eye on a front cut from a 2000 stagea and would like some information regarding the difference between the RB25DETs in them and the ones found in R34s.

I have been told that because they are auto, they have less power. Is that just a simple tuning problem cos they're auto?? Or is there more to it??

How hard are they RB25DETs out of the stagea's to transplant into a manual R34?? I know that you need to change the sump and oil pickup, and that the loom is different. Can anyone expand on this?? Is there an easy way to get around these problems??

Thanks in advance,

Brett

Hey Brett,

The RB25det in the R34 Skyline is the NEO version, VVT type. I have a 97 mod staj with the r33 type 25 motor. The reason that they are not as quick is a simple weight issue. The Staj is a bit of a porker carrying 1650kg dry. How much is fcut?? Are you trying to change the R34 into a 4wd?? Big job!

Cheers m8,

Ken

The front cut also has the NEO version of the RB25DET. I am looking to transplant this into my RWD R34 and need to know of any hassles before hand, so that I can deal with them quickly and get my car on the road ASAP.

I know that to transform the cut from AWD to RWD, you need to change the sump and pickup, but other than that I have not been able to source any other information. Any ideas??

Anyone?? :confused:

  • 3 weeks later...

i have a stagea engine in my r33 gts4 and it is exactly the same as a rb25det, except that the sump you will have to change because of the 4wd drivetrain in the stageas',loom you can get away with the standard one because i think the stagea loom has the fwd linked into it. im actually taking my stagea engine out and selling it if you interested, because im putting a rb25det in so ill swap the sump myself... pm me if your interested

Thanks specialk,

I already have a stagea engine (Neo RB25DET) that is going in on Wednesday. Thanks for the info on the loom, too. I have heard that it shouldn't be a hard swap, but needed to know if there was any major differences i.e incompatible wiring harnesses etc.

What was your reason for swapping from the Stagea RB25DET to another RB25DET??

i work with boostd (the one who's car got written off) and we are throwing his engine into my car. just had more work done to it.

you are converting your car to RWD? or was his a 4wd rb25det as well?

as far as im aware, the 2wd sump will bolt onto the 4wd block, but not the reverse

Yes. Apparently the 2WD sump bolts onto the 4WD engine but not the other way around. I hope so cos I need to transform the stagea cut from 4WD to RWD.

Does anyone know what differences there are in the wiring harnesses for the stagea RB25DET and the R34?? As much info as possible would be great!!

the 2wd uses a different set of "bolt holes" in the block for attaching the sump

the 4wd block has 2 sets(to suit 4 and 2), the 2wd only has the holes it needs (i think)

Correct :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Seems like a waste of a perfectly good 4WD engine. They are hard enough to come by at the best of times , without ppl converting them to RWD only. I just transplanted one into my R32 GTS4, because it's the only upgrade (short of a 26).

Why not let some poor soul with a R33 GTS4 use it for his upgrade? You can use any RB25DET in a GTS / GTSt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...