Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Front Caliper Hard Lines Part #'s


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I got a set of R33 GTR Brembo front calipers.

Unfortionaly they came without the hard lines.

Anyone knows what are the part numbers for these?

I came up with these two but i'm not sure they are right:

46245-24U00

46246-24U00

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be careful, if they came without hard lines the "olive" has probably also been removed from the caliper.

There are 2 ways to fit brake lines, either flared hard lines (like factory) that have a matching flared olive inside the caliper, or just using a banjo bolt and copper washers.

Most aftermarket kits use the second as it is simpler and cheaper, so depending on your application you may not need the hard lines at all. Also, you might be able to find them second hand because most people throw them away with conversions

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be careful, if they came without hard lines the "olive" has probably also been removed from the caliper.

There are 2 ways to fit brake lines, either flared hard lines (like factory) that have a matching flared olive inside the caliper, or just using a banjo bolt and copper washers.

Most aftermarket kits use the second as it is simpler and cheaper, so depending on your application you may not need the hard lines at all. Also, you might be able to find them second hand because most people throw them away with conversions

Thanks for the help,

Sorry for the stupid question in advance, if the flared olive is indeed missing i should be able to tell by looking inside the rear bolt on the caliper?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, and in an unusual stroke of luck I have one of each type of caliper here. You need to look closely inside where the brake line bolts in because the fitting is at the bottom

Caliper without a flare fitting

brakefitting1.jpg

Caliper with a flare fitting

brakefitting2.jpg

The brake line side showing the flare that matches the fitting in the caliper.

brakefitting3.jpg

Basically, the top type expects a brake line with a banjo bolt and copper washers, and the middle/second type expects a flared fitting like the 3rd pic. You need to work out what brake lines you are using to decide if your caliper needs to be the first or second type. In each case I've tried the fitting in the caliper is removable if you need to convert to banjo type.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
×
×
  • Create New...