Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

got some major things happening on my 350GT. i was driving along this morning and suddenly 30mins into my drive the engine light, SPIN and VDC off light came on. After stopping the engine and tried firing it up again. YOu can hear the whole engine trying to start but not turning. I tried the same process again and pressed on the accelerator and the car fired up with the same set of lights coming on.

Anyhow i manage to reset this by doing the ECU reset on youtube and manage to drive (and park the car) but on the way to the another undercover carpark the whole car suddenly died slowly and tried starting again and manage to do this by pressing the accelerator. And the 3 lights came on again.

Can't be the battery as it is brand new (over a month old). Could it be the alternator or distributor?

What is worrying me the most is when the car suddenly lost all eletrics while moving in a carpark and this could happen while im driving on the motorway?

i reset the ecu and its out again.

Do you guys have any ideas?

regards,

JT

I am guessing that would be the 'SLIP' light? not SPIN :)

These are symptoms of many possible faults. It could be a crank or cam sensor, or something else, you will need to get the codes read to find out.

haha yes slip light lolz just goes to show i dont pay attention to my car only when it has issues. problem is i reset the ecu so i have to wait for it to happen again before i can take it to the shop.

Hi. One of the two cam angle sensors has failed. To confirm, and to find out which one, this is how you get the code - but then you probably already know because you said you reset the ECU:

  • Turn ignition to ON (dont start engine).
  • Wait 3 seconds
  • Then over the next 5 seconds, push the accelerator all the way to the floor and then release it fully - do this 5 times quickly within these 5 seconds.
  • Then wait a further 7 seconds.
  • Now push the accelerator all the way to the floor again and hold it for 10 seconds until the MIL starts flashing.
  • When you see it start to flash after 10 seconds, release the accelerator straight away
  • The light should then keep blinking - giving you the fault codes. It will flash up 4 codes, pausing between each. It will blink slowly for the first group, then fast for the next 3 groups. 10 flashes in a group = '0'. ie. code 0123 would be 10 flashes, pause, 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes, long pause, repeat...
  • Turn the ignition to OFF when you're done - this will exit the diagnostic mode.

Error codes here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/350z-ecu-codes.html

0011 is the Bank 1 sensor, 0021 is the Bank 2 sensor.

I hope this helped.

Edited by Stuart McK
  • Like 1

but i have reset my ecu so at the moment the car is running ok. Is there a way to go into diagnostic mode again and try to find which one is the problem?

I didnt do the count hehehe so i dont know which one is the problem. so at the moment i am waiting for it to go into limp mode (hopefully not when im on the motorway)

but i have reset my ecu so at the moment the car is running ok. Is there a way to go into diagnostic mode again and try to find which one is the problem?

Not that I'm aware of. I wouldn't have thought that an ECU reset would have resolved it if a sensor has completely faulted, btw. But if it does do into limp mode, keep your revs down and don't drive it hard home. Oh, and the genuine part from a Nissan dealer was $100-150 I seem to recall (I had to do one sorted ~5 years ago).

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

thanks guys.  I was on the market for a new car anyway. so found one and traded the skyline in. :-) just couldn't be bothered finding the fault in the end after 5yrs so it was time to change.

I still miss it though since I see a few of them around now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Already looked at a few prior to getting the MX5, really nice car, had all the mod cons, but I wasn't really sold on the new "look" I did miss my 2017 Limited, and I personally prefer the "look" of the older car over the new model, but, when pondering I kept going back looking at MX5's But it was same same for the new ND's, I wasn't sold on the new "look", especially the RF with its weird roof, which only half goes down, like a targa top sort of thing As I stated before, I did look at NC's, but the cars I looked at were PRHT's, but I didn't like their roof line "look" of the PRHT, until I saw the soft top version, (someone on SAU posted a for sale ad for one with a soft top that caught my attention, you can blame them for my choice.....🤣) and.... that old style detachable hard tops were available for them, which keeps the old MX5 more smoother flowing roof line, and the more rounded body style, similar to the NA-NB, to me, the arse end of the ND looks to "modern" Much like how I prefer the NC1 front bar, over the later models How long will I keep this car for is unknown, but currently, there's nothing else out there that "floats my boat" for a small, fun, little "sports car", that I can play with and enjoy looking at and driving But, who knows what the future holds, and going off current new car styling, if I replace it, it will be a older model something something       
    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
×
×
  • Create New...