Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Another DIY for those interested

Requirements:

- New bush (brass or OEM will suffice)

Tools:

- 10mm socket with an extension

- Ratchet

- Hammer

- Block of wood (is this even a tool)

- Bench vice

Difficulty: Low

1) Start by unscrewing the shift knob

IMG_2491_zpsmrilnbd7.jpg

IMG_2494_zpslst5r1ej.jpg

2) Remove the ashtray and the screw from behind it

IMG_2495_zpsrpz1ho5y.jpg

3) Grab the shifter surround from the bottom side and pull it upwards

IMG_2497_zps9evdfztt.jpg

4) Undo the bolts securing the shifter ring (possibly the wrong term)

IMG_2499_zpswisdrej3.jpg

IMG_2503_zpshz6cyg5b.jpg

5) Remove the rubber boots and sleeves as shown (including the shifter ring from above)

IMG_2504_zpsnozisccn.jpg

6) Remove the boot that covers the hole for the shifter where it enters the gearbox to reveal a big circlip

IMG_2506_zpsf2rooz2s.jpgIMG_2511_zpselie1aju.jpg

7) Using circlip pliers remove the circlip from the opening and lift the shifter out

IMG_2513_zpsqtsslxbh.jpg

IMG_2516_zpsmhbxue25.jpg

8) Put the old bush in a vice and bend it till it pops off

IMG_2517_zpsghadda2w.jpg

IMG_2521_zps6wtm1xbz.jpg

9) Clean the surfaces and apply some gearbox oil to the ball where the new bush will seat

10) Find a nut that matches the thread of the shifter and screw it onto the end of the shifter

IMG_2525_zpsa2m6djcy.jpg

11) Put the bushing on the end of the shifter and place them both against a block of wood

IMG_2530_zpsoz5rhjqu.jpg

12) Using a suitable hammer, hit the nut hard and the bushing should pop into place

IMG_2532_zpsxpmij9kl.jpg

I took the opportunity to replace the boot that covers the top of the gearbox as mine was ripped. It may be worthwhile changing yours while you have it apart.

Installation is reverse of removal - Be careful as the circlip can be quite painful

Bonus stage - Paint the shifter ring if you have time - No one will see it but if you're like me, it will annoy you.

IMG_2549_zpstsg5b10w.jpg

I decided to replace the OEM bush with a brand new one and do away with the brass one. I might go with the brass one in the future but for now brand new OEM is fine.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465322-diy-how-to-change-r33-shifter-bush/
Share on other sites

Great write up thanks

This is actually on my list of things to do today

Thanks Reuben! hope it helps

Great write up. I've added this to the tutorials list.

Thanks Christian! Are you able to assist with the title change? Should be shifter not s-hifter lol.

Great write up Jacob!

Cheers Josh :)

Hey man, I ain't got no vice, how hard was it to take off old bush?

It's not too bad - See below (could also use a pair of vise grips)

If you got no vice. With a fine tooth saw just cut around the old bush to weaken it then pull off with pliers.

This would certainly work but you could melt it off because it's only plastic

Try not to destroy it (although saw and fire will) just in case you have problems with the brass bush or don't like the feel.

Also just to add as a sidenote.

Removing a shifter with a brass bush can be kind of difficult as the brass bush can dig into the insert slightly. If this is the case and the gearstick wont pull out, give it a few sharp taps with a mallet and it will become free.

Exact problem I had with mine when I took it out.

Thanks for the tip!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
    • Maximum Attack has entered the chat
    • That is porn and I wish I could do it easily on my streeter.
    • Yes there is a front and back insertion point on each side, each point is tubed with supports into the car and tied to the cage/ floor mount point
×
×
  • Create New...