Exhaust Cam Timing Question

[Ed.williams5]

Hey guys I started pulling everything to do my water pump today and have gotten to pulling the timing belt. I have the cam marks lined up for the intake and crank however my exhaust cam is advanced by 1 tooth. I have searched a lot and read you can gain mid range by doing this. What is troubling me is if I retard the exhaust cam and make it so all the marks line up correctly is this going to throw off my tune? Will this make any other differences that I should be aware of? Mod list in signature any information appreciated.

[KiwiRS4T]

I tooth out sounds like too much. How about getting an adjustable cam gear then you can set the cam belt correctly and play with the adjustment for best results.

[Ed.williams5]

Yeah kiwi that's what I thought also but upon further looking at it it had all timing marks lined up so I was mistaken >.<

[Ed.williams5]

Got the water pump and timing belt replaced, ended up just keeping timing marks aligned in stock orientation as fsm says. Weird thing happened though.

After finishing job I started the car to burp the cooling system, all was well started fine and idles smooth, however once it got to operating temp it's like a switch flipped...idle was super rough and when given throttle would miss and sputter. I made sure all alignment marks were correct when I buttoned it up and the car ran perfectly for around 15 minutes. I can't figure out what the issue is. I let the car cool down and even on a cold start its running rough. Any suggestions?

Edited June 26, 2016 by Ed.williams5

[Ed.williams5]

Is it possible in having issues with my CAS?

[Ben C34]

How much coolant spilt on the engine?

[Ed.williams5]

Not much as I pulled my radiator before pulling the pump so the system was pretty much fully drained

[Ed.williams5]

My car has a series one CAS on it right now even though it is a s2 rb25? Not sure if it's has anything do with it as the car was running fine before.

[89CAL]

It was only late R33's that ran the hitachi CAS. so the 'series 1' CAS was on all RB25's up until mid 97 i believe

[Ed.williams5]

89cal thanks for the info, after looking around more I had kinda thought maybe that was the case.

[Ed.williams5]

So an update:

Car idles but sounds like it has a miss. I went ahead and replaced the coolant temp sensor thinking that may be the issue however even with the replacement it's still running like crap.

I made sure that car is timed correctly at 15* btdc with tps unplugged, I did notice however when adjusting timing nothing really clears the stumble up whether I advance or retard the timing. I may see if I can find a known working cas to see if that solves the issue.

Either way I know it has to be something electrical because it literally started running like crap at the flick of a switch.

[KiwiRS4T]

Try disconnecting the coils one at at time to see if you can isolate it to one cylinder.

[Ed.williams5]

I'll look into that next kiwi. I am running ls coils at the moment however I was thinking and wonder if I hook up to my Ecu if it maybe can point me toward the issue too (running haltech platinum pro)

[Ed.williams5]

Update:

Don't know why I didn't do it sooner lol. Hooked up my laptop and pulled codes and a datalog. Had 3 codes 2 tps codes from when I was adjusting timing and 1 engine overheat code. Car was running in limp mode with as safety from ECU. Cleared all codes and car runs perfect once again. Was also able to verify my timing through the haltech which is right at 18* base so may go back and adjust it down ever so slightly to 15*. Thanks for all the suggestions and help everyone!