Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Was looking at buying an R33 automatic skyline and there were a few suspect  thing's i couldn't figure out.

Dash had battery light continually flashing on/off. Car was missing intermittently I'm assuming due to a bad battery.

Car also had a quite loud noise as the aircon locked in.....

Someone hadn't fixed the gearbox handle,  cable's hanging out.

Power Steering leaking - not sure how much this costs to repair?

One of the belts on the front of the engine had been fitted incorrectly,  lip hanging slightly over the pully.

Plus looks like the silver part above the engine looked like it had been replaced. ....

Think it required a new tachometer as was faulty which I think would be costly? Temp gauge ok, was rev gauge suspect.

Turbo timer switch also installed

Car ran fine, no over heating,  nothing leaking. Bit wary though might be too costly getting a roadworthy. ....

Dodgy?

IMAG2666.jpg

IMAG2671.jpg

IMAG2673.jpg

IMAG2668-1.jpg

IMAG2667.jpg

has the seller mentioned if the car was used on the track or motorkhana/hill climbs?

generally people only mount fire extinguishers at the front if required for a track event.

  • Like 1

Tachometers going bad and reading 0/random/+1000/over9000 is a common issue on R33's due to dry solder joints on an internal circuit board. so they are commonly swapped. That cluster looks like it says 124000... Yet the wear in the foot area near the pedals suggests a much higher figure...

Massive generalisation here, but it's got a non-standard pod filter instead of the standard Airbox, this adds nothing to the car, but does often show that the previous owner was a 'tinkerer'/'modifier', which normally doesn't happen with cars that haven't been pushed hard under their ownership.

Flickering battery light can be many things, it could be the battery, but if its doing it with the car running then most likely it's an issue with the alternator under/over charging.

Leaking power steering is another common fault, however they're quite expensive to replace with new OEM parts (new Nissan power steering lines (high and low pressure sides) will set you back $500-700 plus labour of another $200-300)

What is the advertised km's and price of the car? I wouldn't be going near it for anything more than $3k, unless you're capable of repairs yourself, it could turn into a money pit very quickly.

Also, it's auto ;)

They only bought it two months ago off Gumtree from some guy.

Guy was gonna do it up but now needs the money. (project car I think)  His girlfriend owned the car.

They didn't know too much about the history. 

They were throwing in a unfinished/ unpainted GTR front bar and rear bar & big subwoofer in the boot which took up all the space in the boot

. Rear wing had been removed but they still had it.

Think the thing that turned me off was a corner of the bonnet near the RH front quarter near the screen was damaged slightly, sort of buckled

which suggested it may have taken a punt previously.

He said he had a previous roadworthy but lost it "apparently" doubt he was telling the truth. 

ALL tyres also needed replacing

Timing Belt hadn't been replaced yet either.

Definitely running weird with the battery light flickering when it was missing. He said it needed a new battery.

Sat and waited for the car to reach temp and it didn't over heat or anything whilst the heater was on and the aircon worked fine.

They were asking $3,000 which I reckon was too much

More of a money pit than worth it.

Soo many used car sellers won't sell with valid roadworthy's which is annoying.

2 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

has the seller mentioned if the car was used on the track or motorkhana/hill climbs?

generally people only mount fire extinguishers at the front if required for a track event.

doubt it, check the brake fluid lol. unless it was used as one years ago.

I have my extinguisher attached to my seat rails under my legs :)

 

Looks like the car has been touched all over. The wires from the gearshifter are for the o/d on off. where is the rad fan shroud? 

Yeah noted that afterwards too.

Aftermarket radiator with no radiator fan behind it like my old 1997 R33.

Just sounds messy all round and passed all round.

They definitely haven't raced it, just  a young couple probably didn't know what they got themselves into.

 

40 minutes ago, mercyseat said:

They definitely haven't raced it, just  a young couple probably didn't know what they got themselves into.

They've only had it for a few months, the previous owners could have done all sorts of things with it... As a general rule of thumb, when buying a car, any time a seller says that they don't know the answer to your question (History, Roadworthy Status, etc) assume that they do know the answer but are avoiding telling you.

  • Like 1

So many r33's on the market. Wait for a nice clean one to come along. Don't worry too much about km's, focus on condition and working order. Still a fair few good 33's out there. You'll have to pay a bit more to start with but will save heaps in the long run.

Was just looking to find a decent specimen to pillage to fix my damaged R33. Series II  1997 40th Anniversary automatic. Looking for front section, bonnet & dash/airbags.

Want to restore it over time. Been investigating options. Otherwise I'll just sell the wreck or auction it out.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...