Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU'ers. 

Most research points to blown turbo seals/turbos.

Here's the 411.

My car has old -7's with all supporting gear (700cc injectors/splitfires/HKS EVC6/zorst/Walbro pump/cam gears)

Recently had a Vipec installed with wideband.

Compression test came back 170,170,170,170,165,170

 

Car now blows blue smoke on decel ONLY. Very prominent at 3000 rpm. Smells quite oily as well.

Also does not boost to my set boost anymore (20psi). It still boosts fine, but reaches a max of about 17psi in 3rd/4th gear through the rev range.

Do people agree my turbos are letting go?

My compression is quite good, so i doubt it's ring lands or valve seals? It's not smoking at idle or on acceleration.

 

 

 

 

13 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Got an oil catch can set up in it?

No catch can. Tuner also recons this is most likely and told me to get one (Very well respected Tuner)

But what i'm unsure of is:

Car never had smoke on decel before getting the new tune. Only started after being tuned which led me to think its a mechanical issue with turbos.

 

Unsure of Turbo age.

So my first steps are:

- Install a catch can (was actually thinking of Mines cam baffles) for stealth.

- Drop the cat to see if its melted (see if that's why i'm not hitting full boost)... Although its a new Venom cat which i bought 2 weeks ago.

Then i suppose look at the idea that its the turbos going.

 

I had a quick look at the breather hose going into the rear turbo. I can def see some oil at the tip of the outlet pipe. It's not pools and pools of it, but enough to know it's fresh oil not just residue.

 

Leave it overnight and when you first start it give it a good rev and if it blows alot of blue smoke the valve stem seals are no good
If not possibly turbos or one blown
Need to remove dumps on both turbo to check if theres oil inside and check play

  • 2 weeks later...

So i've checked both hot/cold side intercooler pipes and there is some slight oil film inside the pipe. It's wet to the touch but it's not pooling anywhere. Could only reach front turbo by hand and there was no shaft play. Rear one could be stuffed though..

I've attached a video. Video was taken after a 20 min drive, while the car is at operating temp (83 deg). Smoke is present when revving and is more white than blue. I doubt it's head gasket. Coolant level is always perfect. No hissing from overflow and has now coolant loss whatsoever.

Turbo is not boosting to set psi (20). I reach around 16 psi max. But, I do have an inlet manifold gasket leak which will be getting fixed shortly.

I have already purchased my throttle/inlet gaskets as well as a set of genuine Nissan Valve Stem Seals. I also have ARP Head studs on the way and a set of HKS GTSS's.

Fun times ahead!

 

smoke.mp4

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...