Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought my 2535 cheap second hand on the basis of rebuilding it

The cartridge was dry, and after oiling it and letting it sit for a while with oil in the cartridge I took it to a turbo shop and they said it all felt fine

Been on for 18 months at 255kw and still going great

Anywhere that sells garret turbos should be able to rebuild it if required

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465713-hks-2530-found/#findComment-7756352
Share on other sites

Except that they don't rebuild Garrett ball bearing cartridges.

There's info on turbobygarrett.com about a service program, but it's relevant only to the US market.

If the unit referred to by OP has excessive end play, the solution is to replace the entire cartridge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465713-hks-2530-found/#findComment-7756402
Share on other sites

If you really want a fresh HKS GT2530 make sure the compressor wheel isn't damaged and preferably the compressor housing too .

If the one you're considering is for an RB20 or 25 it will have an integral wastegate T3 flanged turbine housing so it can make any GT28BB based turbo bolt to your factory exhaust manifold . Having said that there are limits to what sort of power you can get from even the best GT28xxR turbo particularly on an RB25DET .

If you expect an easy 260+ RWKW on petrol you probably really need a GT30 based turbo in a Garrett . GT3076R or GTX3071R would get you there easily with the supporting mods . GT2530s and similar are better suited to mild 2L 4s .

 

A . 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465713-hks-2530-found/#findComment-7756736
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, discopotato03 said:

If you really want a fresh HKS GT2530 make sure the compressor wheel isn't damaged and preferably the compressor housing too .

If the one you're considering is for an RB20 or 25 it will have an integral wastegate T3 flanged turbine housing so it can make any GT28BB based turbo bolt to your factory exhaust manifold . Having said that there are limits to what sort of power you can get from even the best GT28xxR turbo particularly on an RB25DET .

If you expect an easy 260+ RWKW on petrol you probably really need a GT30 based turbo in a Garrett . GT3076R or GTX3071R would get you there easily with the supporting mods . GT2530s and similar are better suited to mild 2L 4s .

 

A . 

Thanks for everyone's help.

How does the GTX 3071R perform on a rb 20 and rb 25?

 

I have found only alittle info about them for those engines.  

Edited by yoshiii335
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465713-hks-2530-found/#findComment-7756914
Share on other sites

ball bearing GT2530 for an RB26, receipt says $980. was a couple of years ago now.

 

no details on receipt, but i believe it was a full reco with a new CHRA., cleaned housings and wheels etc. looked new when i got it back.

Edited by burn4005
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465713-hks-2530-found/#findComment-7758329
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes). Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively.   Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later. So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection. That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement. The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin.   Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump. Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...  
    • That's looking great! Are you planning to do things like all hidden wiring with it, or you're planning to have it look more like we'd expect an RB in an engine bay to look like?
    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
×
×
  • Create New...