Jump to content
SAU Community

Swapping pinion and crown for GTR diff


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

I've got a 350Z 6 speed manual in my R33, so I'm using an S15 crown and pinion (3.692) to bring all the gears back close to standard.

This pic might explain that better, it's my current setup Vs a standard R33

578831393fb0d_350ZvR33.thumb.jpg.761c4ec

 

The diff will be taking some abuse once it's tuned and hitting the track, so I've lined up a 32GTR rear end to swap out.
I obviously want to keep that 3.692 ratio in the diff.

Will the 3.692 crown and pinion work in the 32GTR housing?

 

Cheers

350Z v R33.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you say "got a GTR rear end to swap out", are you saying that you've got the whole rear end?  Because you will need to keep in mind that there are a number of differences in the various attachments.

GTR diffs have 6 bolt stub axles and drive shafts, so you need those and the GTR hubs.  GTR diffs use a CV joint connection from the tailshaft to the pinion, so you need to either use the back half of a GTR shaft or change the input flange on the diff.

There are some geometry/width/arm changes between early (ie 32) and later (ie 33) rear suspensions.

In the face of all that, the question of whether the CW&P will install onto the GTR pumpkin is actually much less of a problem.  In general, yes they will.  Almost all of those R200 diffs are pretty much interchangeable in that regard. For example, I have an R34 4.11 CW&P installed onto an S15 helical centre in an R32 housing.  But you also need to be aware that there are 2 bolt sizes for attaching the CW to the diff centre, and that sometimes catches people out.  Shouldn't be a problem in your case.

All in all, it would probably be better if you obtained a 1.5 or 2 way mechanical aftermarket centre to put into your original R33 housing, keeping your 5 bolt shafts and so on.  The diffs themselves are all about the same physical strength, so you're not buying much extra strength with a GTR diff, and the 6 bolt driveshafts are only a little bit tougher too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

By GTR rear end I mean the diff, shafts and hubs.

I'm mainly wanting to swap to the GTR setup for the 6x1 shafts, as I have 3x2 at the moment. (Bought the 33 ages ago with no drivetrain, so the standard diff is long gone)
I was intending on changing the input flange on the diff, as I already have a tailshaft made to suit the 350Z box.

Thanks for the insight on the crownwheels, I'll sus that out before I jump into anything

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's actually a valid point!  Whilst the CW will usually bolt onto the centre just fine, I keep forgetting about those horrible diffs with speed sensors on the snout. The pinion from one of those may no fit into housing that doesn't expect it.  Best case, it goes in just fine.  Worst case, it's too long (because some of the single ABS sensor diffs have as slightly longer housing!) you might need some machine shop work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...