Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my RB20 let go recently

it actually split the block off on the inlet side corner... like when i unbolted the sump, a corner of the block fell off.

also when i took the sump off, there was NO ROD at all and only about a quarter of a piston left!!!

here is the 1st photo...

NO LOVE FOR RB20s

splitblock.jpg

(note i have not removed the rod from number 6 crank journal, it is simply absent

Engine/Car:

rb26dett, r32 gtr

Type of failure:

big en bearing #5 spun

Factors influencing the failure:

something big and metal hit the turbo, metal all through the motor. I guess some may have ended up in a bearing

State of tune of the engine:

standard. n1 turbs. standard boost, ECU and tune.

Suspension and tyres:

some jap coilovers and yoko a032r tyres

Oil used and service interval:

mobil 1 changed every race meet

General comments:

Don't drop metal bits into your intake. Thats my tip.

This time it is only rings, bearings, oil pump, machine crank and block, no serious damage it only did a few laps after it all went bad.

And I led for the first 2 laps ;)

:P

Well done!

Thats how you finish a motor off :P

i figure its an RB20

1 down, 50 000 to go.

PS it was in my new 4 door R32 that i picked up on thursday, and proceeded to blow up on thursday night whilst participating in some "close road private testing"

when i picked the car up, i noticed the factory oil pressure guage read 2 bar, and i thought it was innaccurate (sender was f**ked)

turned out that it was reading correctly.

PPS the rev limiter in this car is 8000 rpm

Edited by andylaurel
  • 2 weeks later...

Engine/Car: 1990 r32 gts4

Type of failure: leaking coolant,

Factors influencing the failure: the brisbane heat,i have no idea

State of tune of the engine: stock bar 3inch jap spec exhaust,apexi filter and hks ssq

Oil used and service interval: currently using fuchs 10-40

General comments: stopped in at officeworks on the way home after leaving ow the thermostat jumped straight up to danger zone, now waiting for my mechanic to have some time to look and fix it.

apart from this the engine has been pretty good in the 1year i have owned it

cars at the mechanic now - as i suspected it has a blown the seals - getting redone now

Edited by wingnam
  • 2 weeks later...

Engine/Car: 1989 R32 Gtr

Type of failure: Spun Big End

Factors influencing the failure: shotty 'repair' on previous spun big end. was obvious when i stripped it down, found newish gasket glue around head, also fresh cross-hatching marks on bores from where they tried to hone it up a bit before they slapped it back together (although u can see in the pics the scratches are very deep)

State of tune of the engine: stock boost, 3"cat back, pods

Oil used and service interval: no idea, just bought car

General comments: just bought the car and had it a week when the omonous death rattle began. Has now been replaced with an RB26/30 :P

Engine2.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Tha...;slideshow=true

  • 2 weeks later...

Engine/Car:13 rb25 with rb26 crank rods pistons, hi flow and a few other goodies

Type of failure:worn main bearings and totally rooted number 6 big end killed the crank and one rod

Factors influencing the failure:good old gtr crank snout failure, ending up just turning in the oil pump an not pumping oil

State of tune of the engine:tuned safc

Suspension and tyres:stockish

Oil used and service interval:shell, mobil 1 tried several oils changed every 2000 or so

General comments:pulled engine down found the flats on the crank snout starting to round and also on the flats of the oil pump drive hence the poor oil supply especially all the back at number six

  • 1 month later...

Engine/Car: RB26DETT

Type of failure: big end knock->conrod bolt let loose-> conrod went on permanent holidays taking the bottom end with it

Factors influencing the failure: f-wit thrashing car that had just developed big end knock.

State of tune of the engine: Perfect condition built for high hp drag

Suspension and tyres:

Oil used and service interval: motul 300v

General comments: Engine built in Japan, JUN oil pump, but very little done to head by way of oil return mods. Car was towed with a slight big end knock but otherwise running perfect; towed to another workshop and would not turn over. Hole in block - suspected complete imbecile was behind the wheel thrashing the pants off engine resulting in pics in my sig. IQ tests conducted on said driver - result was negative.

  • 1 month later...

Engine/Car:

S13 silvia with a R32 Rb26dett (supposely only mid 40k on its life

Type of failure:

rear turbo spat the exhaust wheel

Factors influencing the failure:

skids... (well didnt even get to do a good one.. blew before i even got started)

State of tune of the engine: stock computer stock turbos stock everything bar exhaust fmic and pods and 10psi (actuator pressure)

Suspension and tyres: KYB struts n springs

Oil used and service interval:

fuchs 10-30w had only done about 700k's since last service

General comments:

engine still comp tested well 165psi even across all 6.. car got turned off the towed straight home after wards

  • 2 weeks later...

Engine/Car: RB26DETT

Type of failure: 80 Compression in one cylinder (not sure of fault yet, but will post again when the engine is out)

Factors influencing the failure: Old car, no service history

State of tune of the engine: Close to stock but has been boosted in the past

Suspension and tyres: na

Oil used and service interval: Just replaced all fluids, full service and everything.

General comments: Car runs fine. Doesnt chew oil or coolant and doesnt overheat. BUT it runs like crap. Miss fires, looses power across the rev range, very sluggish in the mornings. Time for a rebuild.

  • 1 month later...
Engine/Car: RB26DETT

Type of failure: 80 Compression in one cylinder (not sure of fault yet, but will post again when the engine is out)

Factors influencing the failure: Old car, no service history

State of tune of the engine: Close to stock but has been boosted in the past

Suspension and tyres: na

Oil used and service interval: Just replaced all fluids, full service and everything.

General comments: Car runs fine. Doesnt chew oil or coolant and doesnt overheat. BUT it runs like crap. Miss fires, looses power across the rev range, very sluggish in the mornings. Time for a rebuild.

It is not a failure yet...don't drive it...get it out and rebuilt it now...cost you alot less.

  • 2 weeks later...

Engine/Car:

R32 GTS-t 1989 RB20det

Type of failure:

Rings blew on number 4 piston

Factors influencing the failure:

Clogged number 4 injector

State of tune of the engine: stock computer stock turbo, 13psi, pod, stock FMIC

Suspension and tyres: stock

Oil used and service interval:

motul every 5 thou

General comments:

Car still ran beautifully but blew lots of smoke, when tested for compression it only showed 5spi down, but plenty of oil in there. Complete s/h RB20 put in with 104 on it supposedly.

  • 2 weeks later...

Engine/Car: R33 GTST

Type of failure: Spun Bearing on #2, bent conrod #2 all bottom end bearings stuffed, crank needed regrinding and cylinders needed to be bored out due to scoring of the bores, Stuffed oil pump

Factors influencing the failure: Split oil cooler hose and oil pressure guage not working at the time

State of tune of the engine: Apexi PFC

Suspension and tyres: Standard Suspention, 235/40/18s allround

Oil used and service interval:castrol edge 10W60, had just been serviced

General comments: MAKE SURE YOUR OIL PRESSURE GUAGE WORKS! can save you lots of money!!!

R33GTST RB25DET

235/45/17 Michelin Precedia

Castrol Edge 10W60

4th to 5th gear change at 8,500 rpm

Ooooops got 3rd instead (not me driving)

Result 1 = engine RPM over 10,000 rpm

Result 2 = 12 bent exhaust valves

Result 3 = good excuse to put 0.5 mm larger exhaust valves in it to better balance the inlet versus exhaust flow

:P cheers :banana:

  • 3 weeks later...

engine: rb26dett/89 gtr

type of failure: where do i start,small knock, on closer inspection found a pervious owner/mechanic's botched job to "fix" things up, main bairings gone following that number 2 rod twisted, bairing paticles made there way to the cams and turbos, scoured both, cams dead, turbos ok, bore also scoured, pistons rooted..

factors involved: dodgy previous owner and mechanics who shall remain namless.

state of tune:stock ecu with blitz piggy back,steel wheeled stock turbos, oil cooler, air pods, exhaust, boost unknown.

suspension/tyres: hks springs, stock new shocks, falken rt215 on stock rims.

oil and servicing: unknown..more than likely not good.

genral comments: even a workshop with a good name that specialises in gtr can do a dodgy deal.

  • 4 weeks later...

R32 GTS4 Rb20det

ok, my baby is just bout to die, rattling started last week, sounds like its comin from the top, however every1 ive had listen to it, reckons ive spun a bearing

so yeh rebuild on the cards, ganna get it strenghtned while im there.. no point doing half the job.

Key signs: idle jumpin up and down, rear bar covered in black crap... installed a boost tee runnin 13psi possibly spiked???

no tune, stock ecu....

my own fault..lol

ah well learn from the mistakes

Joe :-(

  • 3 weeks later...

engine: Cefiro RB20DET, i had done over 50000kms with that engine and was still going until i stuffed it

type of failure: Four Valves slightly bent due to piston contact, turned it into a 4 cylinder RB20

factors involved: Attempted to install a Adj exhaust cam gear, lined up the top end but didnt double check the crank. Crank must have slipped on the belt at some stage which put the timing way out. No valve markings on tops of the pistons so it was only a light tap

state of tune: Was probably making around the 200RWKW mark with a Rx7 turbo

suspension/tyres: JIC Coilovers all round and cheapy 17 inch tyres

oil and servicing: every 5000km's with Motul 300V 10-40w

genral comments: Currently rebuilding the RB20 to original specs using all brand new Nissan gear, (New Nissan Rings, bearings, gasket set, oil pump, water pump and timing belt) pulled engine down to find that number 5 rod bearing was worn, the bores had some light scorring marks and oil rings had collapsed, also oil pump was showing signs of wear around the main drive and probably wouldn't have lasted much longer.

  • 1 month later...

R33 GTR 140K

Racing around the track and blew the original turbo's at the end of session 1. Probable lack of oil, need to put in the extra litre next time.

Running about 1 bar boost, cam gears about 240rwkw.

Edited by a20089

R33 - RB25Det

died while cruising!

Cracked 2nd compression ring in No:5 cylinder. @64 000km.

unknown reason.

Oil was castrol sythetic. 20-50 or something(cant remember)

Lost engine and turbo. I suspect that when the engine died it fed crap through the oil and blocked the oil pressure feed to the turbo.

There was lots of carbon in the oil passeges when i pulled it down.

Regular service from me, however there are other things on the car which lead me to think it copped a hard time before a bought it, and poor service history.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
  • Create New...