Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine/Car: rb26dett / r32 gtr

Type of failure: 141klm on the motor - head warped and cracked. block cracked between head bolts and oil galleries.

Factors influencing the failure: radiator failed on the race track. cooked the motor real good

State of tune of the engine: standard, being run in

Suspension and tyres: n/a

Oil used and service interval: never made it off the first oil change

General comments: don't always assume stuff from china is crap and doesn't fit. sometimes it would fit perfectly if you got the right part in the right box

lol kel is nowhere it is 2 to 4. but i seem to have a knack for finding creative ways to kill them. new one is in and ready to run next weekend. but we don't have a psare motor for the year now

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Engine/Car: 1990 r32 gtr

Type of failure: number 6 piston broken

Factors influencing the failure: Not sure, probably too much power for std engine.

State of tune of the engine: 307rwkw on 90k unopened motor (18psi) on HKS GT-SS turbos

Suspension and tyres: bilstein with eibach springs

Oil used and service interval: Redline Oil 10W-40, Just serviced

General comments: Car was completely stock before tune. Signs of neglect due to thick gungy oil found in stock turbos, motor may have been weakened over time and the extra power tipped it over the edge.

  • 3 months later...

Engine/Car:

RB20 A31 cefiro

Type of failure: broken ringlands on piston #3 and #1...

possible valve seals on god knows what pistons.. oil mania

Factors influencing the failure:

holding a 3rd gear slide at mallala with the full face helmet and experiencing my first taste of detonation

State of tune of the engine: 3 inch turbo to tip zorst no cat no mufflers, pod, r34 smic, bleed valve set at 13psi.

Suspension and tyres: full tein s13 coil overs, random treads

Oil used and service interval: mobil 1 10w50 i think

General comments: warmish day at mallala.. bit to excited with my first time on the track..

bets fun of my life sliding while not worrying about police..

now that motor is f**ked.. 70% threw rb25/30 build :banana:

yeeooww

  • 1 month later...

Oh good point I have missed one:

Engine/Car: rb26dett / r32 gtr

Type of failure: 600 klm and 1.5 race meets this time

Factors influencing the failure: the crack in the oil gallery in the block might have led to low oil pressure. In turn 1 at Eastern Creek. At 8,200 revs. Oops. Oil pressure was never high enough in that motor and got worse when it was hot.

State of tune of the engine: standard except for cam gears and computer.

Suspension and tyres: bilsteins, yoko a048r. It was pulling good gs at the time :cool:

Oil used and service interval: well it was only 600klm old so I hadn't moved off the run in oil - penzoil 10w50 mineral oil. changed 3 times in 600klm

General comments: hmmm...when I say "check the block out" to a machine shop, I mean it. On the bright side they paid for the new motor which to be fair is all (or more) than you could ever expect. especially since it died on the race track.

Engine/Car/Year/K's: RB26 GTR33 96 140K

Type of failure: Bent crank

Factors influencing the failure: Age and pushing stock bottom end.May have been unbalanced for a long time.

State of tune of the engine: 290AWKW,s,-5 Turbo's,Poncams,700cc injectors,PFC,AVCR always set at 1.1Bar.

Bottom end: Stock

Suspension and tyres: Ohlins ,K104 Ventus

Service intervals: 5k to 7K

Always was worried about the bottom end when pushing higher numbers.

  • 2 weeks later...

This happend 12 months ago but any way:

Engine/Car:R33 RB25DET

Type of failure: Snapped conrod on 1st piston, smashed piston 1 into metal shavings, punched holes in the cylender walls.

Factors influencing the failure: Engine had a long and hard life.

State of tune of the engine: SAFCII tuned 220RWKW, 18psi.....

Suspension and tyres: big ones...

Oil used and service interval: HPR15, every 5000km

General comments: Pulled the engine down and it was a huge mess.... other conrods looked like they had hairline fractures aswell... RB25DETs dont have the strongest conrods.

Edited by Finny

I never thought i would be posting in here but here i go:

Engine/Car:RB25DET

Type of failure: Smashed pistons and valve train

Factors influencing the failure: Timing belt too tight and was not checked. Snapped the idler pulley shaft.

State of tune of the engine:

CP pistons(9.0:1CR) 20thou over

Spool rods

Cometic 1.2mm MLS head gasket

Nissan gasket kit

Tomei valve springs

Tomei 256 Poncams

Tomei oil gallery restrictor

JUN crank collar

Custom head to sump oil drain

N1 oil pump

Greddy plenum

Greddy throttle adapter

Nismo 740c injectors

Nismo fuel pump

Nismo engine mounts

ARP head,main,rod and exhaust studs

ACL Race series main and rod bearings

Splitfire coils

GT3037 .82 turbo (has the slotted cover for that T51r sound)

GCG Stainless highmount manifold

Turbosmart 38mm Ultragate

All controlled by a Haltech E11v2.

Suspension and tyres: Stock suspension, sitting on 19s.

Oil used and service interval: Motul Turbolite 4100

General comments: Engine was running excellent and produced easy power with no stress. Just sucks that a cheap and overlooked part caused this big mess.

Engine is currently being rebuilt with new pistons, all new valve train ect ect

Engine/Car:R33 RB25DET engine 1

Type of failure: clutch kicked 3rd, snapped engine mount, engine lifted, ripped off boost controller, free boosted smashed 3 pistons

Factors influencing the failure: too shorter hose on boost controller!!!

State of tune of the engine: SAFCII tuned to 172 rwkw

Engine/Car:R33 RB25DET Engine 2

Type of failure: 0 compression on 6

Factors influencing the failure: throttle stuck open, couldnt unstick had to turn off car, everything up the shit trying to turn corner..bad scenario.

State of tune of the engine: stockie wrecker engine, std computer

Third time lucky...so they say...

  • 3 weeks later...

This has been Heart and Wallet breaking. :)

GET RID OF YOUR CERAMIC TURBOS (especially if running higher boost).

Engine/Car: 1993 R32 GTR

Type of failure: Ceramic turbine failure leading to ceramic dust being blown through the engine (all cylinders have some dust), knackered rings, scratched/gouged bores and ceramic dust crushed into quench zone in cylinders 4,5 and 6. That's right, the block, pistons, rings and head are all damaged as well as one dead turbo.

Factors influencing the failure: Ceramic turbos well past their 'service'/replacement date. NO EXTRA BOOST (in my ownership at least)

State of tune of the engine: Dead stock standard engine. Highflow cat, kiakamoto 3.5inch exhaust, pipercross filter. Nothing special.

Suspension and tyres: Irrelevent.

Oil used and service interval: Mobil 1 every 5000km religiously.

General comments: An especially painful turbo/engine failure necessitating a full rebuit and new turbos, very expensive. My advice: don't run higher than 13psi on stock turbo's as this is the service limit according to the workshop manual. Also 'service' or replace at the 100,000 interval. I ran stock boost specifically to avoid this kind of failure but it still happened. Just get rid of the ceramic turbos if you can.

It should also be noted that my oil pump drive showed signs of significant wear... :O

post-37041-1225853269_thumb.jpg

post-37041-1225853346_thumb.jpg

Engine/Car: 1994 R33 GTST with R32 RB26

Type of failure: Broken ring land and slight meltage of No6 piston

Factors influencing the failure: Revving to 8000rpm and a 32deg day lol

State of tune of the engine: Trust 3.5in full exhaust, Djetro, FMIC, 11psi and 245rwkw and 610Nm of torque

Suspension and tyres: Cusco Camber, toe and castor rods, G4 Coilovers

Oil used and service interval: Motul Turbolight 4100 (3000km)

General comments: Every day for about a year or so, revving hard for drifting, drag and circuit, she finally cried enough. Was doing 12.89 at 114mph with shithouse 2.4sec 60ft times haha 3rd run of the day and away she went. Did sound good hitting 8000rpm limiter though :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
×
×
  • Create New...