Report that engine failure

[GTR--J]

Engine/Car:1990 GTR

Type of failure:

1 tensioner bearing @110,000KM's

Factors influencing the failure:

bearing rusted out and I didn't think anything of the "red dust" on the plug coils.

State of tune of the engine:

Mines ECU,splitfire coils,HKS pods,stock boost,new NGK (6) plugs gapped .9mm,trust downpipe,jasma 3",hks bov's.

Suspension and tyres:

255/35/18 bridestone Advan SA3's

Oil used and service interval:

Motul 300v 10/40 First oil change since I got the car

General comments:

I live in Canada and just had the car imported from Japan and only put 1,800 KM's on the engine.The engine started making a rattling noise in the top.Next day it stops running while sitting at a stop light and no more compression.The tensioner bearing no longer exists sooo all the intake valves are bent.The entire bottom end is fine though.I pulled the engine and the head needs a rebuild and the stock turbo's are done as well.It was cheaper for me to buy a factory long block from Japan than it was to rebuild it with some upgraded parts.I have been waiting for almost two months for the engine so hopefully it arrives soon.

[GTRgeoff]

This has happened a little too often for comfort Jason and a pity it is too on such a nice car.

For all those following this thread the cost of a set of bearings is just $130AUD they are a worthy replacement item at 100,000km service. Takes around 2 hours to replace them and the timing belt if the front balancer comes off easily enough. The balancer can be a real pig though.

I recently saw a car also have the bolt break through the adjuster bearing. It was a cheap grade 6 bolt and not grade 8 high tensile so it's also worth grabbing a couple of those to throw in as well to be a little more secure. The damage caused is as bad as not running oil but so easy to avoid (not that this prophetic statement is of any help to Jase).

Goog luck on the rebuild and let me know if you need help sourcing parts.

[ross80]

You guys chould get a sick vh commodore like me.

I just blew my motor up reving it up riding the clutch. My dad is a tow truck driver and he wreckens that we can get one for a carton of piss from his mate at the wreckers or we can pinch one out of car with his tow truck

commys are sick as and i blow the doors of gtb's and r39's all day long

[benl1981]

Set of bearings is $76 from Bearing Industries in Seven Hills - that was cheapest I could find. Wasn't worth not replacing them for that. Though they would usually get noisy and loose rather than sieze..

[justin911]

yip what geoff said..

get everything you can replaced when you do the timing belt.

i had one of the bolts that holds a pulley on sheer off 2 days/50km after i had my timing belt replaced...

[GTR 94]

Engine/Car: 94 R32 GTR

Type of failure: spun bearing, possiably killed oil pump.

Factors influencing the failure: possiably bad tune, oil pump dieing, no rev limiter and possiably cooking the oil (bad oil).

State of tune of the engine: Remapped ecu, Trust T517z turbos, tomie poncams, full trust exauhst from turbos back, bosch 040 pump, adj timming gears, tomie valve springs with retainer made 255rwkw on 14psi and tuned to 95 octane.

Suspension and tyres: HKS hypermax coil overs, R33 GTR rims 235/40/17

Oil used and service interval: had some sort of penzoil serviced only 1000km before.

General comments: Car had only recieved major mods about 1000km before hand, so tunning wasnt exact, pushed it over 220kmh and over 9000rpm a couple of times and had no oil cooler. when the oil came out it actually smelt like it had burnt and oil pressure gauge never really seemed wright either. always up and down below 4. some say the senders are faulty but i feel it was the actuall pump.

[Turbine]

Car: 1990 HR32 GTS4

Engine: RB20DET

Type of Failiure: Conrod bearings starved of oil (No. 6 and No. 3 the worst)

Factors influencing the Failiure: OIL PUMP. It was found that when the engine was pulled from the car,

an inspection of the retaining screws (the philips head countersunk screws)

that are on the back side of the oil pump

had worked their way loose. One was completely unscrewed and the only

way it didn't come right out was because the carnkshaft girdle was in the

way. (passenger side closest to the crank). We have read all the posts about

the standard oil pressure gauge being inaccurate, always reading lower than

actual, never over 4 bar, so we kind of beleived this to be true. NO.

Because these screws were loose, oil pressure would hold until it pushed

past the seal to the rotors, die off and build up again, and so on.

State of Tune of the engine: 12000Km engine previously developed 176 AWKW on 15 pound boost with RX7

550cc, a high flowed ATP internal gated turbo, massive dump and 3" exhaust

system with HKS stainless low mount exhaust manifold. GTR intercooler and

reworked intake, also a remote oil engine cooler.Since that time, new custom

intake manifold,larger turbo, fully ported cylinder head and a remapped ECU.

Oil used: Only the best.

Suspension: JIC fully adjustable with 16X8 BAD Type M wheels.

General comments: Car had developed a slight knock at around 3000RPM. Would sometimes go away

completely then come back. Countless people tried to figure this out to no real

avail, but at the end of the day it was big end rod bearings on the way out. We

finally found out on the Dyno with DR Drift what the knocking was.

A second backup oil pressur gauge would have been nice to see, but we missed

that oportunity too late. Not a pretty job to fix :

I'll be making dam sure that those screws are locked (Locktite) into position before I

bolt the sump on our race RB20DET.

Cheers,

Glenn.

[CRZY32]

Engine/Car: R32 GTR 93

Type of failure: Rear turbo wheel exploded under boost. Ceramic fragments are causing knocking sound and very low compression (90psi) in cylinders 4,5,6. Not yet fixed!

Factors influencing the failure: Just picked up car from docks with Apexi AVCR boost controller. Unsure of boost level, was running fine until it was pushed past 5000rpm. Then BANG!

State of tune of the engine: Trust intercooler, Mines ECU, HKS pod filters, full 3" exhaust, Apexi electronic boost controller, Blitz BOV's..

Suspension and tyres: Bilstein suspension. 18x9" Work wheels.

Oil used and service interval: Unsure, but engine oil and coolant were clean.

General comments: Very unfortunate, turbo blew before the chance to dyno tune. Car in very good condition (85,000kms) full Jap service history. I'm guessing boost controller was to blame for high boost (although it only displayed 0.65 bar)..

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON A BUDGET REBUILD OR REPLACEMENT? (CONSIDERING STANDARD NISSAN PARTS WITH UPGRADED TURBOS ONLY...)

HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED THIS?

ANYONE KNOW WHAT INTERNALS WOULD BE AFFECTED AND WOULD NEED REPLACING/REPAIRING?

Please reply here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...T&f=10&t=116306

Edited May 4, 2006 by CRZY32

[Rolls]

I suggest you save and put some more expensive items in there, you will be wishing you did when you have the money later on.

[GTRgeoff]

Pete, that's unfortunate but common enough. My front turbine on the RB25DETT blew at 5 psi limiting me to 25psi comp in 1,2,3.

This thread is not about discussion on engine rebuilds but is for failures so I suggest a search, then maybe start a new thread and link to it from here to direct anyone who wishes to offer advice, just to keep it tidy and on topic.

[Duncan]

Turbine you will be pleased to know that you are not the only person that has had an oil pump failure / oil pump cover screws coming undone.

It would be interesting to hear anyone with theories about why, maybe we should loctite those screws.

12,000klm is disgusting from a brand new factory part.

[TurboX]

Turbine you will be pleased to know that you are not the only person that has had an oil pump failure / oil pump cover screws coming undone.

It would be interesting to hear anyone with theories about why, maybe we should loctite those screws.

12,000klm is disgusting from a brand new factory part.

Duncan I am not really that pleased to hear this if it has happened to you to

Glenn slipped on the Klm's by a 0 so actually 120 Thousand ks on the RB20

I was kicking myself a bit on this one as I was ignoring the Oil Pressure gauge telling me there was something not quite right with it mostly low but sometimes full scale. Just thought it was a faulty sender. Bought a decent gauge but did not connect it just made it look pretty in the mod GTR centre housing

Looks like a good excuse for an RB25....

Sorry Geoff, will delete this in a few days to keep it tidy.

[GTRgeoff]

I'd prefer you leave it Greg. Failures are what we want to know about, and I'm about to commence collation for a document to advise of the most common failures and their root causes.

[gtr sleeper]

r32 gtr failure: melted no 6 piston, cracked no 5 piston ring land, no 6 main bearing failed, rear turbo exhaust wheel exploded, no oil psessure, front turbo siezed, most seals blew out caused by excessive crank case pressure from 5 & 6 piston. The cause was : a lazy fuel pump (it ran lean) in 3rd gear up a long hill at about 8000+rpm with 16psi boost, rear turbo failed cause of heat, front was lack of oil or heat? state of tune: was pretty stock, had hks boost controller, hks cams and 3 1/2 cat back exhaust. suspension: is greddy springs and std shocks and std gtr rims. oil used????? only had it 2 days!! (bugger) now mobil 1. general comments:no signs before failure at all, am a mechanic and i checked every thing except fuel flow (pressure was good), i went nuts with the fuel system on new engine and run an exhaust temp gauge. was planning 2 rebuild anyway but not this soon. now runs nearly full hks engine and custom garrett turbos, am very happy with new engine but was pissed off that had car for 2 days and didnt get 2 drive it again for 3 months, it was worth the wait?

Edited May 13, 2006 by gtr sleeper

[CRZY32]

gtr sleeper - Chris had my car for 2 days also, now having to do a complete rebuild.

Are you able to PM me with the parts you used for the rebuild? Also any advice you have regarding: piston types, crank, garrett turbos, etc. would be very useful to me as I am currently planning a complete rebuild.

Thanks

Pete

[Rolls]

gtr sleeper - Chris had my car for 2 days also, now having to do a complete rebuild.

Are you able to PM me with the parts you used for the rebuild? Also any advice you have regarding: piston types, crank, garrett turbos, etc. would be very useful to me as I am currently planning a complete rebuild.

Thanks

Pete

Theres stacks of build up/rebuild threads on these forums already, do a bit of a search, should come up with alot of different options.

[Espo]

Engine/Car: rb25det

Type of failure: idle bearing stud snapped, causing the belt to skip, valves gone yet to pull it fully down

Factors influencing the failure: idle bearing not ceased still spinning freely, the car was cruising at about 60 through a town on the way to heathcote drags, timing belt replaced only 2-3000ks ago

State of tune of the engine: afr's 11.5 with 203rwkw

Suspension and tyres: stock

Oil used and service interval: motul, only serviced twice as as only been in aus for about 8000k's 110000k's on engine

General comments: just really shocked, I have heard of ceased bearings causing dramas but my bearings were fine so who knows.

[Duncan]

Hmm that is strange.

Given that the timing belt was just changed, how confident are you that the tension was set correctly? Seems a wierd co-incidence that it happened so soon after.....

[Espo]

Yeah true but I'm pretty sure the workshop would of done the job properly re tension.

I've been told by other mechanics that you would hear if it was overtension and to be honest the car was running queitly. Infact I was really happy with it so who knows?

[N1GTR]

My turn

Engine/Car: 1990 GTR

Type of failure: Massive pinging and massive blow-by

Factors influencing the failure: Possibly tuning (although its been fine for months) and ring/s worn out are the most logical

State of tune of the engine: 11:1 AFR's throughout rev range. 260rwkw. OEM turbos at 15psi. Full exhaust. Microtech ECU. ARC airbox etc

Suspension and tyres: Tein suspension, 18x9.5inch rims with 235/40/18 cheapo tyres

Oil used and service interval: was Motul 10w40 turbolight for most of its life until recently i started with Penrite 5w60

General comments: I had overfilled the oil up to the bottom of the dipstick hump after a series of mates wrecked their motors from oil starvation. Only found the blow by problem at Oran Park on a drive day which was a great way to waste money, and wreck a fun day out. It would pop the dipstick out after a lap or 2 flat out, i assume this was caused by the high sustained boost compared to street driving. I will see later today with the hand controller for the ECU how the AFR's are at the moment.

It will be rebuilt with the Mines spec2 motor specs downloaded from their site.

Edit, here's the culprit