Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Really though, Tom, as someone still lifting relatively light you don't need most of those exercises in the program. 4 or 5 comprehensive compound exercises will not only work most of the muscles in your body at once and proportionately, but if done properly, you won't even have the energy for any others. Less is more, in a sense. You saw how quickly I had Grant lifting 100kg in spite of awful mobility. He was only doing 3 exercises. This is something I wish I had the benefit of knowing in my younger years, because all I do these days is 4 or 5 exercises and it's enough. I look better/bigger and am stronger than the younger me who used to do 15 different exercises a week. If I could turn back time...

Lift smart not hard :D

I understand what you're saying. But I think we can both agree that there is more than one way to skin a cat. Isolation vs compound is another section of the fitness industry that is as clear as mud. Tnation bb they all have 'proven' evidence that contradicts one another, as we have spoken about before With set vs rep ;)

Everyone has different goals and or body parts which affect their chosen lifts. I have been advised not to do deadlifts yet as I had a serious lower back injury a few years ago. This can contribute to my new program, also a lacking chest would explain 3x chest exercises, which aren't solely isolation with what my body has told me.

Thank you for your help guys, but not everyone's body type and muscle mass is the same and in turn needs specific lifts to cater to them.

:cheers:

There are plenty of ways to gain muscle, yes, we are only pointing out the most efficient ways that are going to have you up and running sooner. Just want to save you the years of side raises and bicep curls that will nothing for you compared to focusing on the big lifts.

3 chest exercises won't do anymore for you than one chest exercise done properly or to the same intensity. It is much the same muscles being used. This is fitness OCD and I used to have it too - 4 lat exercises and my back is bigger just from doing pullups alone.

People have different body types and goals, but too many use that as an excuse/reasoning why they do some weird program. As Rev said, you are ultimately limited by genetics, but this does not mean you can't train efficiently like other people and get decently big off the same methods. You've stated you want to gain muscle and that's the only reason we've jumped in and said hey try this. We've said our bits and it is a build thread, so I'll respectfully duck out now and pop in only to support / cheer you from here on out.

As for your lower back and deadlifts, I recommend trying them with an empty bar and go from there. Hell, start with a broomstick until you have the mobility right for it and marginally increase weight over time. If you feel any pain, you can stop - it won't be anything that will break your back in and instant. Otherwise, enjoy the strengthening and medical benefits of deadlifts!

  • Like 1

Thanks Adam, as I said previously I'll give this new program a go for the next 8 weeks and see what transpires. I just don't want to sway from my trainers recommendations without giving them a go first. After all he has done all my measurements and knows me better than myself at the moment.

So far weight has increased while body fat has decreased which is a great sign in the fact that I have put on muscle. I'm

I just checked all my exercises on BB and they're all compound guys, don't stress haha. 

 

Pull ups - 10x6

Seated rows - 3x8 50 kg 3x8 45kg

DB Lying bent over row - 3x8 25kg 3x8 20kg

T bar - 

 

Had to stop because my tricep is shooting pain due to the ulnar nerve. Plus side is that my skin isn't ultra sensitive, downside is it's immense pain and loss of strength.

Saw the doctor last night and she diagnosed that i have skin aids, aka shingles. 

My physio did mention last monday that he had 3 cases this year that resembled ulnar nerve damage, but was in fact shingles.

 

Just have to wait it out and wait for my strength to come back.

I've got dehydrated discs in my back, dead lifting and power cleans with correct technique has helped a lot.

The trick is to start really light and just keep adding 2.5kg each week.

Also try 1 arm dumbbell rows, well supported and you can lift heavy without fear of f**king your back

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you checked the foam over the years? No deterioration to the foam from e85 mixing in oil? (assuming you're on E85)
    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
×
×
  • Create New...