Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had a weakened door lock actuator for a while in my R34 sedan, meaning that one of the doors had to be locked manually each time, not ideal. 
I managed to chase down the replacement part from the wreckers and finally got around to replacing it.

This is not a full DIY but here's the general outline, mostly as a note to self for next time:

  1. For instructions on how to remove the inside door panel go here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285604-tutorial-r34-gtt-door-panel-removal-guide/ . That guide is for a coupe but sedan front door is very similar. Note to disconnect the window switch plug, push in the clip on the underside of it
  2. Remove plastic lining inside the door. Take care with the gooey black glue, it spreads easily and sticks everywhere.
  3. Remove rectangular metal brace from the door (4 screws) to give better access to the inside of the door end.
  4. Remove the bottom screw of the window slide/guide and jiggle it out of the door.
  5. There are a lot of mechanical arms (thick wire looking things) going everywhere, they are the fun part of this puzzle. Most of them disconnect the same way: At each end, rotate the plastic clip thing to the side first to release it, then pull the end of the arm out of the hole. Remember there are two ends to each arm – only disconnect the easier end, not both.
  6. The door lock/actuator assembly is held in place by the three large screws at the edge of the door where the latch is.
  7. To get the assembly out you'll need to rotate is slightly to get it out of the O-loop in the door lock arm coming down from the top.
  8. I'm pretty sure there's a wiring connector for actuator but I got over excited with wire cutters so oh well.
  9. Once you've got the assembly out you can replace the actuator only, or the whole assembly, depending on what you have. 
  10. To re-assemble, follow the steps in reverse. Make sure you put every single arm back the same way.
  11. Test everything before you put the door panel back on: door handle and locking mechanism inside and out, central locking on/off, window up/down. Note that for the window to work you'll have to reconnect the window switch plug.

It took me a while to work out that the window slide/guide needed to come out of the way first. Generally it's an easy job, just fiddly.

  • Like 2
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

So the passenger door lock is playing up again, annoying. I just pulled it apart but can't see anything wrong; it's a convoluted mechanism but all the arms seem to be connected correctly.

I'm not sure if my replacement actuator is a dud (or just old), or whether there's something else wrong with the mechanism. It seems like the actuator doesn't 'trigger' consistently when the central locking is engaged or disengaged. I wonder if it could be a power/wiring fault...?

Anyone else had this issue in their R34, any suggestions? 

  • 3 months later...

Hey man, yeah I accidentally found my front passenger door in my 4 door r4 was not locking or unlocking it I pushed the locking tab inside the car. I stripped the door car off the stumbled across your walkthrough which I must say is very good and easy to follow! My actuator doesn't seem to move much and sometimes only one way, is this what you had? My mechanism seems tough too though but I've blasted it with silicone spray.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The steering wheel on my 97 s3 gtr is a little bit worn out, so im on the hunt for something mint. I notice that this type of steering wheel is on several other nissan's of the era.  Does anyone know if their all identical, or are there slight differences? I feel like gtr tax applies to anyone selling one, but if it comes from any other car the price is much less, even though its the same design.  Chat gpt says the material for the gtr is slightly different and it says gtr on the wheel, but every pic ive seen it just says nissan. 
    • I might have to say it.
    • Ahh... it's an early RE5R01A box, that means the pinouts I gave are wrong (they were for the RE4R01A 4-speed box)... I'll have to dig around in my docs to see if I've got that schematic (they used the same gearbox plug, with the vacant pin wired to the direct drive clutch solenoid)...prolly hidden away in a supplement somewhere... ...there were 3 variants of the RE5R01A ~ this early schema was what we called the 'dumb' 5 speed ; it's what jatco called a 'medium duty' box, with torque holding up roughly ~200ft/lbs or so, which was good for NA from RB20/25DE and up to around VG30 output spec. With the RB25DET (and VG33/35 mills), the only options they had was the 4-speed 4AX00 box, which had been beefed up to handle the extra torque (primarily for the VG35, but it also suited the RB25DET mill and others)...and the RE4R03 box in large 4WDs a lot of the time... ...the next variant of 5-speed was redesigned, stronger, and 'smart'...first ones had external TCU with internal (on valvebody) Shift Control Unit, pressure switches, and 2 x TSS...and the last ones had internal TCU+SCU setup, with CANbus control etc etc. @DRoc81 On the RHS of the box towards the rear, there should be a stamped silver ID tag -- what's the model number? Oh...and with the early 5-speeds, the torque converter control solenoid assembly should be replaced as well (31940-60X00)...it's a bit Murphy's Law ....if one has failed, bet on the rest not being far behind ...
    • I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely.  I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.    
    • Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
×
×
  • Create New...