Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It was retarded not advanced . The idea being the exhaust valves open and close 2 degrees earlier so the cylinders blow down fractionally earlier in their cycles and the overlap timing is a little shorter .  So instead of the valve timing being 8-68 63-13 it would be 8-68 65-11 and the overlap duration 19 rather than 21 degrees . 

I imagine they set the cam where they wanted it with the crank at TDC , then moved the crank with the modified pulley so the cam would be in the normal position but with the crank 2 degrees after TDC . Tighten the four bolts and cam timings finished .

A .

4 hours ago, Dose Postman STFUU said:

brap brap brap bro :)

 

Edited by discopotato03

Presuming you've had something done with the head?  Pretty economical with the detail Adrian.:10_wink:

Do a bench test and see for yourself what happens to injector spray patterns with bigger base pressure.

Takes the guesswork out of whether you need to listen to what "people" say.

Probably going to be hard to beat a Walbro 460 if you need a new pump.  Contact Mafia for some comments/experience on what works well and how to control the pump to best effect on a road car with Link/Vipec ecu tricks.

I think the buckets were fine , just a few RS exhaust valve guides . If they don't line up with the seat they don't seal too well . Was ported first time round and had Ferrea (sp) over sized exhaust valves fitted . Head was O ringed to make the OE gasket reliable with extra heat and pressure . Std springs shimmed for a few extra pounds .

A .

  • 2 weeks later...

ok so cams are in, fitted to standard positions, no adj. gears...due to other work also being done to car over last few weekends, haven't done heaps of driving as yet or fully retuned, but impressions so far - idle is a little bit rougher but nothing overly noticeable. If you're giving it low throttle, standard cams win as there's a slight loss in pickup. If you're giving it medium or more throttle, the 256's are noticeably better although haven't even given it full throttle yet.  Looking forward to retuning and seeing the end result.

^^ Andy the truth is for most cases there's far more gain in having optimised inlet, exhaust, and cooler piping than there is cams.  Comments from Stao in his Hypergear thread bears this out.

But changing to these baby upgrade cams sure isn't going to hurt.  Going to be interested to see your results.

The best explanation I have is that aftermarket cams in a street car get you the last 50 Hp , not the first (over standard) . I think there are many better mods to make initially than cams in either flavour RB25DET . Better easier bang for buck .

I just happened to go that way since I opted for a second head to modify , saved downtime , and had it all done together . I also opted to have that head decked to get the highest practical compression ratio without making it unreliable , supposed to be around 9.2 - 9.3 to 1 . Not really a relevant comparison but I was told at the time that the GMS GTRs ran about 9.6 to one esp after CAMS forced them to reduce boost to make it "fairer" for the iron ox taxis .

I now think that lack of exhaust valve sealing and fuel pressure issues were ganging up on me , first issue fixed and a new pump shortly (no time atm) .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...