Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

<Cool Story Hansel>

Of the 3 cheapy Pro-Sport gauges I have in my car, one is an exhaust pyrometer.  Probe is installed in a hole drilled in the exhaust housing.  I installed it years ago, and it has provided interesting information since.  But this week it paid back the purchase price and installation effort several fold.

The other day I booted the car out of a corner and at decent load&revs in 2nd gear the gauge went over the ~950°C alarm temperature I'd set and flashed red.  I went along fairly gently after that, but noticed that the exhaust temperature would climb a lot faster under any moderate load than it normally would.

So, theories started to multiply in my head.  Dead injector?  Soft fuel pump?  Thermocouple sheath finally burnt off an thermocouple junction exposed to full exhaust flow?

Had a look under the bonnet and the FPR sense hose was connected and there were no problems with the AFM hose clamps etc.  Thought I'd add the idea of a dying AFM to the list of theories.  Fuel pump seemed like the obvious one, seeing as it is a Bosch 040 that has been in the car for a loooooong time.

Slapped the car on the dyno just now.  Mixtures were perfect.  Well not perfect, but they certainly were not lean.  Under any real load it was better than 12:1.  Ran it up harder and under decent load it was pinging its tits off.  Quite nasty.  Had some fairly aggressive timing in a couple of areas of the map, but it didn't used to ping there.  So we pulled some timing out and silenced the pinging.  There does not seem to be anything else wrong with it.  Right at the top of the revs/load it is as rich as buggery - some power to be found there later, but we'll deal with that another time.

 

Result?  Can only really be a bad batch of fuel.  I filled the tank on Saturday at a different outlet to my usual 1 or 2 places.  Suffered the high exhaust temps on, maybe, Wednesday.  All the driving between filling up and that time was commuting to work and back in horror traffic so no opportunities to load up and get any warning.  Too coincidental to be a coincidence, for my liking anyway.

Anyway, the pinging was bad enough that if I had continued on blithely thrashing it (if the opportunity presented itself) with the stereo turned up I never would have heard anything and it could have cost me the engine.  I'm happy.

</CSH>

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 8

Yeah, obviously proper knock detection is the best way to deal with pinging issues.  But.... further information relevant to my case in particular.....the ECU is Nistuned, so it actually has a knock sensor and good knock logic that actually appears to work.  But it doesn't do enough.  A proper aftermarket ECU with the ability to get really brutal with chopping the timing back would be required.

We could tell that the ECU wasn't happy.  It was idling with 5 degrees of timing when we started!

The point of my post was just to point out that the pyrometer is a bloody good bit of gear to have on board.  It could have warned me of a dying fuel pump, but it turned out to warn me of something else.  Not bad in my books.

Nice one, thanks for sharing, great result!

I had a similar deal with my water temps at Sandown couple of weeks back, would have cooked it a lot worse if it wasn't for the nagging Defi alarm.

Also I often hear 'but you won't have time to look at gauges on the track', which is true – except for a quick glance on long straights. It's still much better than not knowing, and the alarms and max readings (checked after each session) are the real deal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...