Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello from Canada!

i just recently picked up my first Nissan a 1997 Nissan Stagea with an automatic, RB25de Neo and an r34 Gtr front end, I'm totally in love with it but I parked it the other night and it was running great, went to start it in the morning and it was running rough. I assumed it was a coil pack that died (my Soarer did the same thing last year) so I parked it, and went to the local importer to buy a coil pack.

came home went to start the car to pull it into the garage... And nothing. Just cranks but won't fire. Pulled the intake apart to get at the plugs, pulled the plugs out and they were wet, I installed new plugs and still the same problem. Pulled everything back apart and pulled the coils out one by one to check for spark. I turned the CAS by hand to check spark. I have spark on all coils except for cyl 3 ( because of the dead pack) 

I'm also hearing the injectors clicking so I have pulse also the plugs were wet so fuel is getting to the cylinders. I thought it could be that one coil pack but after searching forums and speaking to RB specialists in town that was ruled out.

ive also tried changing the CAS, and I read somewhere that try unplugging the AFM, so I unplugged it and still nothing. I'm at a loss. I'm hoping someone might be able to shed some light on this issue! Thank you in advance for reading! (Sorry for the novel)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466282-another-no-start-thread/
Share on other sites

The silver one with the 260 kit? Welcome to the stagea family!

 

What plugs are you using?

Try disconnecting the injector to cyl 3 and check the plug again after trying to start it to see if it's wet.

clean afm

check tps

clean iac

 

Thanks Trex! No it's a stanced out white one with a full masa r34 kit, 19" work euroline fe's, and red bride brix seats.

im using NGK Iridiums BKR5EIX, the plugs that came out originally were toasted. But these are brand new.

is there a way to test the tps and iac?

 

Oddball problem that has stopped my car from starting...

At the front hose to the engine you'll see two water temp sensors. One with one wire (goes to gauge) and one with two - goes to ECU. Pull off the two wires and see if it will start. If it does you need a new sensor. Long shot but simple and quick (and free) to test.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...