Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

27 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:


Pretty s__t when cold to be honest. Ok when warmed up except in really tight turns i.e. shopping cente car parks. Whatever drivability I previously had left for my better half is now pretty much gone ;)

In terms of performance there's no benefit on the street really, maybe on a mountain run. Yet to run it on the track, we'll see.

For a mostly-street car VLSD or helical is the better option.

...or what about a Cusco 1-way????

  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/28/2016 at 9:03 PM, V28VX37 said:

Yeah fingers crossed :)

Re break in, I've done mostly normal suburban driving and trying to take it easy for first few hundred km's. I did do about 10 min of figure 8's on the first day but it gets old pretty quickly.

I actually had the diff on order before my last event but it never made it on time. Probably better that way, at least it gets a more peaceful run-in period before Sandown on October 1st.

How'd you go at Sandown?

How did it feel and what sort of lap time improvements did you see?

How'd you go at Sandown?
How did it feel and what sort of lap time improvements did you see?

Unfortunately I spent most of the day confirming that my head gasket is gone so only got 7 crappy laps in. Morning was very wet and the rear was very predictable in power oversteer but other than that there's very little to report.

Overall I'm not sure it's the right diff for my use to be honest. I drive about 10k a year and with a handful of track days it's only a fraction of the time that it gets used as intended. It's not a short distance city driving diff that's for sure.
3 hours ago, V28VX37 said:


Unfortunately I spent most of the day confirming that my head gasket is gone so only got 7 crappy laps in. Morning was very wet and the rear was very predictable in power oversteer but other than that there's very little to report.

Overall I'm not sure it's the right diff for my use to be honest. I drive about 10k a year and with a handful of track days it's only a fraction of the time that it gets used as intended. It's not a short distance city driving diff that's for sure.

Thanks UC

Im considering getting a nismo pro gt diff in the future for track days

Well if you end up wanting to sell it let me know :P

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, blah_blah said:

Thanks UC

Im considering getting a nismo pro gt diff in the future for track days

Well if you end up wanting to sell it let me know :P

Haha thanks Tony, I think I'll just need to man up and get used to it. At least mine's not an auto like Greg's so I can clutch in around hairpins :P

Unless yours is a track only car definitely do a test drive first to see for yourself, happy to take you for a spin.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
On 28/09/2016 at 5:32 PM, V28VX37 said:

Pretty s__t when cold to be honest. Ok when warmed up except in really tight turns i.e. shopping cente car parks. Whatever drivability I previously had left for my better half is now pretty much gone ;)

Came here to get reassurance that I didn't get a dud unit. 

I had mine installed recently and only now fully understand what you are talking about. 

Does a fantastic job putting power down but it's not at all discreet inside the cabin.

Rickety navigating tight to medium turns, clunky upon exiting sweepers.  

Also locks up with very little provocation. 

Despite how brash it is to live with I would still opt for the Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way LSD over the standard viscous LSD. 

  • Like 1
Came here to get reassurance that I didn't get a dud unit. 
I had mine installed recently and only now fully understand what you are talking about. 
Does a fantastic job putting power down but it's not at all discreet inside the cabin.
Rickety navigating tight to medium turns, clunky upon exiting sweepers.  
Also locks up with very little provocation. 
Despite how brash it is to live with I would still opt for the Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way LSD over the standard viscous LSD. 

I've found that in suburban driving I either clutch in around a tight corner or need to give it a bit of gas to lock. Mine's at its noisiest when it's not fully engaged around a corner.

I never had issues putting power down or single pegging with the stock viscous diff so this is definitely a step down around town. Live and learn.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...