Jump to content
SAU Community

DR30 transmission differences?

JCubed

By JCubed,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

JCubed Newbie

JCubed

Posted
Posted

With my recently aquired 83 RSX (Iron Mask) I received a second transmission. In my research I managed to track down the first US based owner that purchased the second transmission. In our discussion he said that he had found that the Turbo C came with a stronger trasnmission. The issue is I am having a hard time confirming this, or even how to confirm that this is an 84+ transmission. 

So far I have been able to find the transmission's in FJ20et models were FS5W71B. I do know there are a few variations as this was a popular Nissan transmission even today it seems. The only information I can find are two part numbers, 3201007S61 for 83 cars prior to August and 3201007S60 for August 83 to 85. Even if that were the case being an August 83 car I should already have the later transmission.

If there are variations specific to the Skyline, any documentation or details as to what they might be? I might end up swapping the transmission anyway to try and eliminate a grind I get shifting in to reverse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466344-dr30-transmission-differences/
Share on other sites
admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

Not really on topic but you could try some nulon smooth shift additive or replace oil with redline shockproof and see if it remedies the grind into reverse. Would save yourself a heap of work if it fixes it and also keep the spare box for down the track. Unless you've already tried this of course.

JCubed Newbie

JCubed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If I decide not to swap it that's definitely in the plans. I'm not sure when the last fluid change was on the trans and diff. How difficult is transmission removal on these? I was underneath working in suspension the other day and it seems pretty accessible. I'm used to working on my z32 where transmission pulls aren't the easiest.

The reverse issue is hit and miss. Sometimes it does it once when I start driving, other times it will happen a few times. I find that if I make sure I pull the gear lever to the right hard when shifting it usually doesn't grind.

Im hoping the transmission I have sitting is in fact different so I have another excuse to work on it.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I don't know specifically about dr 30 transmissions, but the  numbers you posted above (3201007S61 for 83 cars prior to August and 3201007S60 for August 83 to 85 ) is the nissan part number. Sadly the full nissan part number is not generally not stamped on a part, but using Nissan Fast you can find the correct part number for any given VIN code and also there is no reverse lookup from the part number to donor cars either

  • 10 months later...
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

I was led to believe that the FJ20ET FS5W71B had wider gears than the FJ20E version of the same box (or L-series etc. etc.)
Suggest that you get into the habit of stopping the car, engaging 1st, then engaging reverse - that way the 1st synchro stops all the internals 'gently'.
Sometimes things don't line up and it won't go into reverse. In which case, going for another forward gear prior to reverse will do the trick.

If you want to upgrade the box, then get an FS5W71C from an R32 GTSt. Some custom parts are required, but you'll end up with a more modern system with dual-synchros.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Kinkstaah
      Coc or nox of nissan skyline

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      the ergonomics are real
×
×
  • Create New...