Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake master cylinder and brake booster questions (R34)


Recommended Posts

I've searched for these with no luck so here goes:

  1. Does anyone know where to get a BM50 brake master cylinder rebuild kit for the R34 GTT OEM BMC?
     
  2. Is the BM57 a plug-and-play upgrade over the BM50? Would I retain existing brake bias and ABS with it? The idea is to go bigger (front) brakes in the future so if upgrading BM57 is similar cost to rebuilding the BM50 that might be the go.
     
  3. Does anyone know if the R34 GT brake booster is the same as R34 GTT? The part numbers seem different but I'm not sure if the P/N is for the booster+master combo, and the GT master is definitely the smaller BM44.

Thanks guys.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you tried Nissan for the rebuild kit? I put a BM57 in my S1 Stagea and retained the original brake booster.  I don't know if bias is different but I put a set of D2 330mm 8 pot brakes on the front and GTR 2 pot on rear and did not have any apparent problems with bias.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Have you tried Nissan for the rebuild kit? I put a BM57 in my S1 Stagea and retained the original brake booster.  I don't know if bias is different but I put a set of D2 330mm 8 pot brakes on the front and GTR 2 pot on rear and did not have any apparent problems with bias.

Good idea, I'll give that a go.

Does your ABS work ok on gravel/wet with the bigger master?
I'm actually pretty keen on the 330mm rotor size so I could retain my 2 sets of 17" GTT stockies, both with decent tyres...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

Good idea, I'll give that a go.

Does your ABS work ok on gravel/wet with the bigger master?
I'm actually pretty keen on the 330mm rotor size so I could retain my 2 sets of 17" GTT stockies, both with decent tyres...

Yes still got ABS. I believe D2 brakes sold in Aus as K sport or suchlike. Duncan has a set on one or more of his cars. Or GTR Brembos are 324mm. You may need to check if stock GTT wheels will fit over. I have used 17in Rays and 18in Skyline wheels.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you pulled your MC apart to see if it is badly scored etc? If not a rebuild kit should be fine.

If you do want a new one Just Jap seem to have them for 395

http://justjap.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Brake+Master+Cylinder


Thanks mate. I haven't pulled it out yet as I'd prefer at least installing some new seals before putting it back together.

I reckon I'll start with bleeding the abs unit as per the above instructions to see if that improves it at all.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone heard of HFM or used their parts? Their BM57 alternative is a decent price, pic below: https://hfm.parts/shop/brakes/nissan-bm57-brake-master-cylinder-abs/

Looks like it's a Chinese re-manufacture of the original Nissan BM57: https://www.facebook.com/gktech/photos/a.479905785391677.98225.133362883379304/729676497081270/ 

HFM-BM57ABS.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do not use hfm bmc. Im not sure if anyone has had success with one but a lot of people have had major issues. The only parts they sell that are any good are their brake calliper adapters for R33 and S15. Just about everything else is junk unfortunately. I recently bought some of their calliper adaptors but wasn't game on trying out their rotors. LOL.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I rang Race Brakes, they don't have the rebuild kit but suggested testing the master cylinder first.

I've just done the following:

  1. Car off
  2. Pump brake several times, stiff pedal
  3. Put tape measure next to the pedal
  4. Apply consistent brake pressure
  5. Measure pedal drop

I did this for 30 sec (max attention span) and there was zero pedal drop, so it seems like the master seals ok?

EDIT: I also just watched some vids on vacuum assisted brake boosters. I've always had this thing where in traffic lights, applying the same pressure, the pedal drop slightly after a while. Understanding now a bit more how a brake booster works, this could be the engine idle revs increasing ever so slightly > more vacuum > more brake boost > increased drop for same pedal pressure. Does this make sense?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

I rang Race Brakes, they don't have the rebuild kit but suggested testing the master cylinder first.

I've just done the following:

  1. Car off
  2. Pump brake several times, stiff pedal
  3. Put tape measure next to the pedal
  4. Apply consistent brake pressure
  5. Measure pedal drop

I did this for 30 sec (max attention span) and there was zero pedal drop, so it seems like the master seals ok?

EDIT: I also just watched some vids on vacuum assisted brake boosters. I've always had this thing where in traffic lights, applying the same pressure, the pedal drop slightly after a while. Understanding now a bit more how a brake booster works, this could be the engine idle revs increasing ever so slightly > more vacuum > more brake boost > increased drop for same pedal pressure. Does this make sense?

Yep. To confirm try the brake pedal first thing in the morning before starting the engine. Hit it a few times to make sure there is no vacuum left,  pause,  and then push down on the pedal and see how it feels.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
×
×
  • Create New...