Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have a bit of a issue with my r32 gtr,

i took it for a quick drive the other week and all seemed fine until i got it home and tried to start it the next day, originally i though it may be low on fuel so i have toped up the tank and have noticed for some reason it continues to blown the #7 fuse under the dash which is labeled engine control. i have unplugged everything in the engine bay that i can find along with the ecu (link g4), but it still continues to blow. i have also unplugged  both computers in the boot along with the fuel pump and still nothing?

i though it may have been the main loom so i have since replaced that too and still no success, i also checked the wiring under the dash and it looks fine aswell. So now I'm kinda out of ideas. i have searched for a solution on the forums but have found nothing that helps my situation.

what exactly does the fuse control? i have read that it controls the hicas but i have removed all of that. The engine check light also is not lighting up but i figured that was because of the fuse.

Im at a loss what to do next, I'm considering ripping out the whole interior to find the fault where ever it may be, but i'd rather avoid that. so any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Firstly, if anyone has a readable copy of the GTR wiring diagram I'd love a copy!

Fuse 7 (IGN) seems to connect to:

Exhaust temp sensor

HICAS computer

Steering angle sensor

A/T ECU (GTS4 only)

I take it that the actual issue is that the car doesn't start with that fuse blown? If so there is more to it than what I just listed, like I said the diagram in the PDF manual is pretty much unreadable (its on page 777 if you want to try, top leftish marked IGN #7 10A, also joins to 20 on page 780 (also top left, marked IGN #7) but none of HICAS or the EGT sensor is required to start the car. BTW it's very likely your EGT sensor is also disconnected, it lives in the cat from factory and is not reinstalled in most cars when a custom cat/zorst is installed. Plug is probably unplugged under your passenger seat somewhere

Also it's possible the fuse problem is not the cause of your car not starting, could be a goose chase...

thanks mate but I'm pretty sure its the same source (pdf manual) that I had....check out p777 the detail isn't readable and the one you posted doesn't say which fuse is which, it just shows there is a fuse :(

well after i fitted the new loom it did start for a few seconds but it was very rough, wouldn't idle properly etc. but since then I've got nothing. is it possible its flooded, even though its been sitting for a few days? i have also checked the fuel pump relays and they're fine, the injectors click when i spin the cas so it seems fine and i checked the ecu as well and its good. so I'm leaning toward the ignitor, is there any way to test it? it has spark so it should be good? But I'm still gonna try swapping it out, just waiting on my friend to come over and ill test it with his. 

RB26DETT Wiring Diagram.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
×
×
  • Create New...