Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR misfire. O2 sensor readings.

 

Hey everyone, hoping I can get some insight into this..

I've chasing this misfire since months. Engine boggs heavily when cold until coolant temp reaches 60 degrees celcius. Clears up as soon as it hits that mark.
Engine misfires heavily under high load above 4000 rpm. 10 psi boost.
Engine is bone stock. Stock ECU.

Work done so far:
-New coilpacks and harness.
-Spark plugs BCP7ES gapped to 0.8mm
-Fuel pressure and injectors ok. New fuel filter. 12.4 volts at fuel pump.
-Smoke tested- found air leak and replaced all 7 intake gaskets and all hoses underneath. Smoke tested again - no air leaks now.
-Swapped CAS. no change
-Swapped MAFs. no change.
-swapped boost solenoid. no change
-swapped coolant temp sensor. no change.
-Base and ignition timing is on point.

Now i'm looking at o2 sensor readings. They don't seem normal to me but I would just like to confirm with anyone with more diagnostic experience than me. Here is the data from ECUTalk via consult.

Idle after hitting closed loop: 0:00 - 0:25
Shy revs: 0:25 - 0:30
Idle : 0:30 - 1:00
Hold rpm 1300: 1:00

Please. I will appreciate any input.
Thanks!

Edited by gotenek
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466476-r32-gtr-misfire-o2-sensor-readings/
Share on other sites

Unplug them and see if the car drives better...

Have you tried swapping the ignition unit on the valley cover with a known working one?

I presume all parts were swapped with known working items?

Have you done a comp test?



I will try unplugging them thank you.
I converted to r34 gtr coilpacks so ignitor pack was deleted.
Yes eveything was from good running friend's car
Yes. Compresion test yielded even 160 psi on all cylinders while engine was hot.
Boroscope each cylinder. Valves and cylinders looked ok. Just a little bit of oil around the piston rings but thats understandable at 155,000 km.
Did this problem occur when you did the swap to 34 gtr coil packs?

Just stabbing in the dark but maybe that's your issue...



No unfortunately not.. its been there since a long time preventing me from driving the car

don't run them... you'll have shit fuel economy for now.. but at least the OEM ECU won't add in any funny fuel trims for both short and long term...

once you're ready, get an aftermarket ECU and feed a wideband o2 into it.

 

Sounds like you have electrical gremlins. 

  • Like 1
don't run them... you'll have shit fuel economy for now.. but at least the OEM ECU won't add in any funny fuel trims for both short and long term...

once you're ready, get an aftermarket ECU and feed a wideband o2 into it.

 

Sounds like you have electrical gremlins. 


Don't run what? Are you suggesting that my o2 sensors are okay?
unplug both o2, don't bother running them - downside is you'll have crappy fuel economy but that's Skyline life.

 


Oh i see i will try that as Hadouken suggested as well. I have new o2 sensors coming in 2 days. Just wanted some input on my current ones
New or used Engine coolant temp sensor swap in?

Check the wiring and the grounding and use a new one for $50 (kudos motorsport)

 


Used one from a friend's properly running car. I've checked wiring. Didnt see any voltage drop
  • Like 1

Put a scope on the negative of all the cylinders. #6 seems to be dropping below 5v. I'm not sure of what to derive from this. Checked resistance from signal wire to ecu for all cylinders and they are all at 0.182 ohms. Checked ground for Coilpacks. Resistance was nominal. Checked CAS signal wires (2) as well and they are a 0.145 which seems nominal.. I think

Swapped ECU from a friend's good running gtr. No change.. lol

 

Cylinder 6:

Rest of the cylinders: 

 

If the engine is stock, and the coils are good, then open the plug gap out to 1mm. Also, you seem to have the wrong heat range plugs - the correct heat range is a 6.

 

BTW - I've lost count of the number of times I've had to say that the O2 sensors are ignored under anything but cruise conditions. So if you are on boost, the O2 sensors play absolutely no part in how the engine runs.

  • Like 1

I've gapped the spark plugs again to 1.1mm recently and no change.. And yes, they are bcpR7es NGK 6282 (typo haha).  

The rpms start breaking up anything above 4000 rpm. The higher the load, the worse the misfire really.

On 9/2/2016 at 8:33 AM, blind_elk said:

BTW - I've lost count of the number of times I've had to say that the O2 sensors are ignored under anything but cruise conditions. So if you are on boost, the O2 sensors play absolutely no part in how the engine runs.

Yes also that's cruise when the engine is up to temperature, and OPs problem is when the engine is cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gents, it will be getting the MX5 Mania kit and the 2.5 will be staying where it is My query was about the 0.64 or the 0.86, whilst the 0.64 might spool a bit faster, would the 0.86 be better IRT EGT and mechanical sympathy, with only a small difference in spool And as I assume I won't need alot of boost to get to 200kw, probably around 10 psi, and with max rpm at 6500, would high EGT even really be a issue with a 0.64 I'm heading into MX5 Mania at the end of Jan to discuss the install, so any info is welcome prior to that Basically have a chat and book a time so they can throw on the turbo kit, and fit a oil cooler with a thermostat, drive in drive out of course  In other news: just finished cleaning the car inside and out, it's now all ready to get covered in bugs and dirt driving to Goulburn tomorrow to lunch,  and go for a stroll along woolondilly River with the daughter and her boy, and of course, visit my grandcats and my new grandpuppy 
    • Sounds like it has an actual problem with mode select doors, or something.
    • Hope your all having a mean Xmas! If anyone happens to know any trick to using the insanely complex climate control system, I cannot get it to not be on dual zone no matter how many times I deselect it (will say it's not but both vents blow different temps). Also one side is always hot, one always cold 🤷
    • I'd be looking at the mentioned EFR kit, room to turn it up if decide on e85 (which we know you will) and be super responsive and fun on the street. OR https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nc/?srsltid=AfmBOorrJa2S76JR5ekXprxBOtU44a1UProbe64YaiVi9zTVp1Lj814w And add whooshy noise for extra fun C5 corvette prices are coming down locally here and a mate has a manual one and is a heap of fun on the street and track.
×
×
  • Create New...