Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 wheel fitment

Hey guys been doing some reading and cant get a definite answer, wanted to know if 

17x9.5 with -20 offset 

Will fit inside standard gaurds if they get pumped/rolled, was trying to figure if they wuld or not before i order them

Thanks in advance

Edited by Beauc32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466479-r33-gtst-wheel-fitment/
Share on other sites

no way they'll fit

-20 is way off

+30 is the best offset

they'll be 20mm outside the guards and that's rolled and flared

I have 18 x 9.5 + 30 all round

Dead flush with rolled and flared guards

Front rims hit the control arms a bit, I took out some with an angle grinder.

There's a sticky wheel offset thread..

P9230021.JPG

Edited by conan7772
  • Like 1
On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 9:21 PM, conan7772 said:

no way they'll fit

-20 is way off

+30 is the best offset

they'll be 20mm outside the guards and that's rolled and flared

I have 18 x 9.5 + 30 all round

Dead flush with rolled and flared guards

Front rims hit the control arms a bit, I took out some with an angle grinder.

There's a sticky wheel offset thread..

P9230021.JPG

f**k that sucks guess i better look for different wheels aha 

Cheers for the help ??

  • 3 weeks later...

My old 1994 R33 GTST Coupe  I got 18 x 8.5 on the front and 18 x 9.5 on the back with zero rolling or offset.

The front rims though were that close to the brake caliper , no more room left...

 

 

229265_7008947250_1209_n.jpg

226490_7008997250_5322_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...