Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The rb20 and rb25

Hello,

I found some info from testing done on the r32 gtst and the r33 gtst.

Its often said seemingly on websites that the rb20 is a motor lacking torque under 3000 rpm and that the rb25 is better, stock vs stock.

I know that the rb25 is a more powerful motor and has more torque stock vs stock rb20.

But in these test I found, it seems that the rb20 in a r32 gtst stock compared to a rb25 in a stock r33 gtst is not that bad.

 

RB20.jpg

RB25.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466486-the-rb20-and-rb25/
Share on other sites

You never give up do you?

Those graphs are not "tests" or dyno charts - they are computer models invented by some one.

The harsh facts are that the RB20DET makes 265Nm

The RB25DET makes 294Nm

and the RB25 Neo DET which everyone is telling you to get makes 343Nm which is  significantly more than the RB20 

  • Like 1

A guy in france put his r32 gtst bone stock on a dyno, here is the sheet :

 

152585BancOEM001.jpg

 

f**king small turbo an still max torque beyond 5000 rpm.

Stock wise the gap might not be that big but who here is still stock anyway. I have a 20, a mate of mine have a 25 and the 25 is much nicer to drive despite having a taller diff ratio and bigger wheels. So yes the 20 is a bitch down low, at high rpm i prefer the feeling of my shitty 20 (mostly thanks to the 4.36 diff I have) but below 4000 this is a no brainer.

Yoshii you need to realise theyre both internal combustion engines which are dinosaur technology now, same basic design for over 100 years. You need to be progressive and look towards the hybrid technology Porsche, Fiat and Rocklasser are using or possibly something nuclear-fission powered if you're serious about this car of yours being half decent...otherwise i'd have to assume that this thread is just a troll...?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...