R32 GTR - Aftermarket Radiators and Factory Shorud

[r32-25t]

Koyo make 2 sizes, the 43mm and the 50mm, obviously you have the 43mm one

[SimonR32]

 

14 hours ago, GarettH said:

I have a koyo rad, factory shroud, new clutch fan and nismo engine mounts and needed no trimming.

It's only at high speed and high I have found...

Mine only starts rubbing at over 200km/hr

[MrStabby]

Ghetto brackets FTW. Top tank is 50mm, but rad is pulled up against the front. No touching.

 

[Pezhead]

I just did some brackets exactly like that.  Bunnings alum strap and grommets ftw!

[GarettH]

 

It's only at high speed and high I have found...

Mine only starts rubbing at over 200km/hr

Really thats strange, do you know where its rubbing? Ive definitely been over 200 a few times and have not located any markings yet. Do you have the 43mm rad or 53mm?

[SimonR32]

53mm

[BlackBox]

only if done right.. and 9/10 times it is done wrong...

Most owners just hard wire their fans OR use shitty fan controllers that turn off and on constantly like a strobe light.. followed by those who just hook it up to their OEM overheat fan relay/thermoswitch.

You need a proper fan controller either a standalone unit OR through your car's aftermarket ECU to set OFF and ON points followed by some form of hysteresis - only then would that be consider an appropriate installation.

I am installing thermo fans to my r34 gtt even tho I have read lots of accounts of failure I want to try it correctly for myself.. I am fitting 52?mm radiator with shroud and twin thermo fans. It will be controlled by haltec platinum pro.
I am also fitting a thermostatic oil cooler.
Can you clarify what you mean by 'some type of hysteresis'

[GTSBoy]

Hysteresis.  Where the on point is at a higher temperature than the off point.  So it doesn't sit right at the "switch point" and go on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off.......

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

^nailed it

[niZmO_Man]

So then the fans die and engine overheats? Should've stuck with stock setup

[BlackBox]

Hysteresis.  Where the on point is at a higher temperature than the off point.  So it doesn't sit right at the "switch point" and go on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off.......

Uh yes of course this would be a given

So then the fans die and engine overheats? Should've stuck with stock setup [emoji14]

I'm not concerned with this, I have faith in modern electric motors, don't they become useless after ~60km/h road speed anyway? My only concern is if they will be able to pull enough air when stationary. Plus it's strictly weekend warrior so won't be sitting still for too long[emoji14]

[Piggaz]

5 hours ago, BlackBox said:

Uh yes of course this would be a given



I'm not concerned with this, I have faith in modern electric motors, don't they become useless after ~60km/h road speed anyway? My only concern is if they will be able to pull enough air when stationary. Plus it's strictly weekend warrior so won't be sitting still for too long

So why not just stay the factory setup? It works! Leave it alone!

[BlackBox]

Because the factory shroud and fan were a bit damaged and I have felt the effects of a viscous fan locked up so believe there might be a slight gain, plus it looks heaps neater

[GD51LA]

i would be using allot larger grommets than that

get them as close to the factory size as possible

my mate just went thro two big $ custom radiators because of electrolysis

SCA have on that revolving nut and bolt rack rubber grommets about the size of a 50c piece,
i would be using them at least

only a few dollars from memory