Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, 

Hope this is the right place to post this. I'm looking for some advice on how to remove the adhesive used to hold the sound deadening in place (the yellowy/brown reside where the sound deadening was). 

So I've used dry ice to remove as much sound deadening as possible however the residue is insanely hard to get off. I want to get everything as tidy as the finished bit on you can see on the nearside wheel arch however before I give myself cancer from inhaling copious amounts of fumes from some type of industrial strength solvent, I wanted to see if anyone knows of a better way. 

I feel like this shouldn't be as hard as I'm finding it lol 

Dry ice pocket.jpg

Finished example.jpg

Rear after dry ice.jpg

 

 

 

Dry ice pocket.jpg

Finished example.jpg

Rear after dry ice.jpg

Edited by Murray_Calavera
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466571-sound-deadening-from-hell/
Share on other sites

I've done a couple of cars now. Dry ice as much as you can, then carby and throttle body cleaner dissolves it somewhat. Lots of elbow grease though no getting around it if you want it all off without taking paint off.

What Duncan said, I recently did this, wire wheeled that section off, then used a strong wax and grease remover to rub the rest off. Its only that brown sticky shit there. 

Pro Tip - When you go to bunnings to get your wire wheel, buy a set of cover-alls from the paint department. Make sure they have a hood. Wire wheeling gets shit everywhere, but its fast.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ayooo, been a while mates. I have a s2 r33 gtst and air stopped coming out of all the top vents.   My car has always made an actuator gear noise when turning the car on but that's a different issue I think? Did searches and am at process of thinking it's an actuator or some type of motor? I see a few different actuators and don't know which one. Would be nice to know if it was the one that's under the steering wheel so the dash doesn't need to come out.
    • Hi, just checking. Did you get this stuff made by Vspec Performance and at what price roughly? Looking into (sometime later) also getting such a intake kit, and Trust as well as HKS don't make a full set like this anymore.
    • 2025 Update PRP RB30 Black and Crank Shipped from Austrailia made it and was sent off to the machine shop. -700 to 800hp Service was done to the Block, which included: Inspection Prep and Black Brace to convert engine to 4wd oil Pan  Crank Fully prepped for 1000hp PRP RB30 timing belt kit w/ ALL options Nitto Pistons Nitto I-Beam Rods Nitto Oil Pump New OEM Nissan RB26 Cylinder Head Shipped Supertech intake and exhaust Valves over-sized Kelford 272 cams Mild Lift Nitto Headgasket All of the machine work is completed and next step is assembly and dropping in the new motor.   Upgrades (Changes) from the previous build: Engine Management - no longer using ECUMasters. Haltech Platinum Pro Turbo - Went from twin HKS 2530s with upgraded wheels to BW362SX-E Fuel - 1000cc injectors to ID1430x Single in tank Walbro 450 to Radium External Surge Tank w/ 2x Walbro 450s     I am looking to be back on the road by the end of summer. Wish me luck! monthly updates should be coming!    
    • Realised I never posted this , also I never got a price 
    • I'm glad to hear you've joined the SKI club. Spend the Kids Inheritance.
×
×
  • Create New...