Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

T28 rear housing size & Hi flowed ?

Hey guys I'm trying to find out what rear housing size my turbo is but can't seem to find the right info. 

I've got a 200sx - s15 with which I believe still has the factory t28 bush bearing turbo. Does anyone know what the rear housing size is not sure if its the .64 or .86 or I could be wrong all together...... anyways any help  would be appreciated. 

Also Has anyone had any experienced with Hi flowed turbos ?. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I understand Hi flowing the t28 will mean that it will still spool at the same rpm as it is stock but just makes more boost compared it in stock form at the same rpm for e.g. 

Stock                 Hi flow

 2000rpm          2000rpm
=5psi                 =7psi

and so on wards ?

Does it also mean that the t28 will hold boost right upto redline as well?. 
Are there any downsides or things to worry about when Hi flowing?.


Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466572-t28-rear-housing-size-hi-flowed/
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

The rear housing size will be stamped on the housing, easiest way to confirm. Our cars don't tend to stay stock for long, I'd just have a look to see if any previous owners have changed things up. 

With regards to the high flowing, you haven't quite got the right idea of how it works. Maybe the easiest way to think about it is, when you high flow you'll have a slightly bigger turbo in the same size package. 

Essentially the way it works, the housing is machined out to allow a bigger CHRA to be fitted. The size of CHRA that can be fitted will be based on how much can be safely machined out of the housing. Other upgrades can be made at the same time, such as ceramic wheels to steel wheels, ball bearing core, etc 

'Holding boost to redline'... it's a bit ambiguous, I'm sure the factory turbo can hold factory boost til redline, if you see what I mean. To try and answer your question though, a falling boost curve can be due to a number of reasons such as the turbo falling out of it's efficiency range. If you do a bit of reading on compressor maps and how to interpret them, this should help you answer your question on if X turbo can hold the boost you want. 

Downsides or things to worry about? Hmm pros: ease of fitment. Cons: you'll probably want a bigger turbo soon lol. 

Hope some of this helps. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...