Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Was out for a cruise today with a mate. Giving the car a hard flog. All of a sudden I heard this loud whistling. Sounded like a typical boost leak. Checked clamps hoses and all looked good.

Noticed this when I pulled everything apart. The intake pipe was made by nm Scotty and it's actually pretty solid.

Has anyone seen this before?

Cheers,

Chris

48e44cc90958a4731c1087b2c43fff6c.jpg

005d200a9395a65a0fc04e37e3f02411.jpg

If I were to hazzard a guess.

 

I would say that your intake pipe and filter are solidly attached to the body.

 

I think the engine has rocked over and mashed the intake pipe and turbo snout together. 

 

Hot aluminum bends pretty easily

  • Like 2
you sure it didn't get bent during install and you've jut noticed now you're looking for issues? just a thought.



Yeah I only put the car back together two weeks ago. Definitely would have noticed if it was like this before
  • 2 weeks later...

Hard to say, if I had just seen the charge piping only I would have said the clamp was over tightened. However like others taid the clamps where too tight, it got hot and some engine movement occurred pushing the charge piping up against the compressor housing. I would leave a 3/4" gap between the piping and housing next time. Also check your motor and transmission mounts. 

Hard to say, if I had just seen the charge piping only I would have said the clamp was over tightened. However like others taid the clamps where too tight, it got hot and some engine movement occurred pushing the charge piping up against the compressor housing. I would leave a 3/4" gap between the piping and housing next time. Also check your motor and transmission mounts. 

Hard to say, if I had just seen the charge piping only I would have said the clamp was over tightened. However like others taid the clamps where too tight, it got hot and some engine movement occurred pushing the charge piping up against the compressor housing. I would leave a 3/4" gap between the piping and housing next time. Also check your motor and transmission mounts. 

  • 3 weeks later...

Looks like the clamps were over tightened to me, were you using those shitty Tbolt ones, or Norma style worm drive? 

 

You should be able to straighten it out with a ball head hammer and gently tap it back into round.

How tight do you typically do up your hose clamps?

I tighten all intake plumbing using a socket driver rather than a ratchet, this gives more feel and less chance of over-tightening. Comparing your 1st and 2nd photos, the worm drive of the hose clamp is in roughly the same spot as the bend in the intake pipe. That is usually where the most pressure is too. It's possible it sealed until a few heat cycles and then let go, leading to an air leak.

Edited by colourclassic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...