Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone seen this before? Damaged intake pipe/turbo

dontyellpl0x

By dontyellpl0x,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dontyellpl0x Mentor

dontyellpl0x

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Was out for a cruise today with a mate. Giving the car a hard flog. All of a sudden I heard this loud whistling. Sounded like a typical boost leak. Checked clamps hoses and all looked good.

Noticed this when I pulled everything apart. The intake pipe was made by nm Scotty and it's actually pretty solid.

Has anyone seen this before?

Cheers,

Chris

48e44cc90958a4731c1087b2c43fff6c.jpg

005d200a9395a65a0fc04e37e3f02411.jpg

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

If I were to hazzard a guess.

 

I would say that your intake pipe and filter are solidly attached to the body.

 

I think the engine has rocked over and mashed the intake pipe and turbo snout together. 

 

Hot aluminum bends pretty easily

  • Like 2
dontyellpl0x Mentor

dontyellpl0x

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you sure it didn't get bent during install and you've jut noticed now you're looking for issues? just a thought.



Yeah I only put the car back together two weeks ago. Definitely would have noticed if it was like this before
  • 2 weeks later...
rx-line Enthusiast

rx-line

Posted
Posted

Hard to say, if I had just seen the charge piping only I would have said the clamp was over tightened. However like others taid the clamps where too tight, it got hot and some engine movement occurred pushing the charge piping up against the compressor housing. I would leave a 3/4" gap between the piping and housing next time. Also check your motor and transmission mounts. 

rx-line Enthusiast

rx-line

Posted
Posted

Hard to say, if I had just seen the charge piping only I would have said the clamp was over tightened. However like others taid the clamps where too tight, it got hot and some engine movement occurred pushing the charge piping up against the compressor housing. I would leave a 3/4" gap between the piping and housing next time. Also check your motor and transmission mounts. 

rx-line Enthusiast

rx-line

Posted
Posted

Hard to say, if I had just seen the charge piping only I would have said the clamp was over tightened. However like others taid the clamps where too tight, it got hot and some engine movement occurred pushing the charge piping up against the compressor housing. I would leave a 3/4" gap between the piping and housing next time. Also check your motor and transmission mounts. 

  • 3 weeks later...
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Looks like the clamps were over tightened to me, were you using those shitty Tbolt ones, or Norma style worm drive? 

 

You should be able to straighten it out with a ball head hammer and gently tap it back into round.

colourclassic Mentor

colourclassic

Posted
Posted (edited)

How tight do you typically do up your hose clamps?

I tighten all intake plumbing using a socket driver rather than a ratchet, this gives more feel and less chance of over-tightening. Comparing your 1st and 2nd photos, the worm drive of the hose clamp is in roughly the same spot as the bend in the intake pipe. That is usually where the most pressure is too. It's possible it sealed until a few heat cycles and then let go, leading to an air leak.

Edited by colourclassic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • GTSBoy
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...