Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Lithium said:

Interesting - I would have expected more than that!    Still, must be pretty solid even with that?

That doesn't sound great :/

Yea, I'm not sure about the oil/wastegate, but it only seems to be a very small amount and only when I'm really hard on it. And 750awhp is pretty nuts already. If there is more, I am pretty happy with where it is now. It just pulls and pulls all the way to 9k rpm. I've already gone through a back set of tires from spinning 3rd and some of 4th.

On 9/2/2017 at 11:40 AM, minesskyline said:

After speaking with the tuner further, I believe that 750 was all he could get out of the setup. If they can do more, I don't know what other changes could be made to extract more power.

im interested to see the chart, and whatever info you can share of the tune/setup.  how much boost, ignition advance and WGDC? Do you have turbo speed sensors?  Do you have a boost chart showing RPM vs boost and where are you reaching 1bar boost?  obviously there are many changes that can be made to extract more power, but thoroughly understanding the baseline is important before changing anything else

On 9/2/2017 at 11:42 AM, minesskyline said:

@Full-Race Geoff Do you know why the wastegates would allow small amounts of oil to be blown out from them? I have the turbosmart wastegates from your site.

All wastegates internal or external will have a small leak from the lower port.  In the case of turbosmart IWG actuators, if you use a 4 port solenoid with pressure in the lower canister it can push assembly lube out of the lower bushing. Turbosmart is fantastic to deal with, if you have any concerns send them a photo of the actuator. 

On 9/2/2017 at 7:22 AM, Piggaz said:

@Full-Race Geoff

Have you seen a 8373/1.45 result at all?

Any news on the 8474?

yes 8374 1.45 was a popular evoX turbo, but 9174 1.45 has pretty well displaced it

8474 and 9280 both required a new compressor housing design.  This will not be released until 2018

1 hour ago, Full-Race Geoff said:

im interested to see the chart, and whatever info you can share of the tune/setup.  how much boost, ignition advance and WGDC? Do you have turbo speed sensors?  Do you have a boost chart showing RPM vs boost and where are you reaching 1bar boost?  obviously there are many changes that can be made to extract more power, but thoroughly understanding the baseline is important before changing anything else

All wastegates internal or external will have a small leak from the lower port.  In the case of turbosmart IWG actuators, if you use a 4 port solenoid with pressure in the lower canister it can push assembly lube out of the lower bushing. Turbosmart is fantastic to deal with, if you have any concerns send them a photo of the actuator. 

yes 8374 1.45 was a popular evoX turbo, but 9174 1.45 has pretty well displaced it

8474 and 9280 both required a new compressor housing design.  This will not be released until 2018

Here's the 91 pump gas and e85 dyno plot overlay. Let me know what other information you need that's not represented here. I will get whatever you need. Also, I'm running a megasquirt standalone so I might be able to get the tune as a whole. This is not to say that the tuner did not do a good job, because I believe they did a fantastic job with this build.

20170903_195944.jpg

Edited by minesskyline
Added more info.
9 hours ago, minesskyline said:

Here's the 91 pump gas and e85 dyno plot overlay. Let me know what other information you need that's not represented here. I will get whatever you need. Also, I'm running a megasquirt standalone so I might be able to get the tune as a whole. This is not to say that the tuner did not do a good job, because I believe they did a fantastic job with this build.

20170903_195944.jpg

now hit the track and tell us the mph you run :)

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, minesskyline said:

Here's the 91 pump gas and e85 dyno plot overlay. Let me know what other information you need that's not represented here. I will get whatever you need. Also, I'm running a megasquirt standalone so I might be able to get the tune as a whole. This is not to say that the tuner did not do a good job, because I believe they did a fantastic job with this build.

20170903_195944.jpg

Can't really read from the graph (sorry blurry and at an angle), but what power did it make on pumpgas (looks like 620?) and what boost level to achieve that? Same question for E85. Dang...mustang dyno those are STRONG numbers!

1 hour ago, HarrisRacing said:

Can't really read from the graph (sorry blurry and at an angle), but what power did it make on pumpgas (looks like 620?) and what boost level to achieve that? Same question for E85. Dang...mustang dyno those are STRONG numbers!

Sorry, I will take a better picture. 641 on pump at 26psi. 758 at 32psi on e85. The car is really fast. I've been in 9 second cars before and I am more than confident that this is one. I will try to get setup for the track this year to find out officially. 

6 hours ago, minesskyline said:

Sorry, I will take a better picture. 641 on pump at 26psi. 758 at 32psi on e85. The car is really fast. I've been in 9 second cars before and I am more than confident that this is one. I will try to get setup for the track this year to find out officially. 

Oh that's interesting - that sounds a LOT more positive than I expected, what size cams and what headwork do you have again?  Normally 758whp on a US dyno doesn't necessarily represent THAT fast a car.  

 

Oh that's interesting - that sounds a LOT more positive than I expected, what size cams and what headwork do you have again?  Normally 758whp on a US dyno doesn't necessarily represent THAT fast a car.  
 

Aren't Mustang dynos meant to read low or realistic by Oz standards?
16 minutes ago, admS15 said:


Aren't Mustang dynos meant to read low or realistic by Oz standards?

I am not sure they are totally consistent, my general feeling is the order of "generous" to "heartbreaker" for your average example of each would be Dynapack=Dynojet, Mainline=Mustang, DynoPower (Popular NZ dyno), then Dyno Dynamics... but then there seem to be more generous and also harsher examples of all of those which throw the rules, rules of thumb for dyno comparisons can't ever be taken as gospel from my observations so far.

Sound Performance use a Mustang dyno and they made ~770whp (over 550wkw) out of a 1.05a/r EFR8374 on kill with a hot 2JZ - if that was an absolute then comparing that with this result basically kills the "twins are better" argument for EFRs, which to be fair is a tricky one as there has not yet been transparent public result for twins which have justified their use over a single EFR that I've seen beyond where the twin kit covers what no single EFR can do (ie, twin EFR7163s flow MUCH more than any single EFR).

 

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Lithium said:

Oh that's interesting - that sounds a LOT more positive than I expected, what size cams and what headwork do you have again?  Normally 758whp on a US dyno doesn't necessarily represent THAT fast a car.  

 

Port and polish, bronze valve guides, retainers and valves (I don't remember the brand off the top if my head). Cams are Poncam B's.

btw i now have a 34 getrag with a triple plate clutch sitting on 275 Mickey Thompson radials

im going to try and hit wsid in september, shove 31psi down its throat and better my 134mph

Edited by usmair
  • Like 2
3 hours ago, usmair said:

btw i now have a 34 getrag with a triple plate clutch sitting on 275 Mickey Thompson radials

im going to try and hit wsid in september, shove 31psi down its throat and better my 134mph

Currently changing from Haltech platinum to EMU Black. Also resetting my out of spec shims (been this way forever), and going to water/meth injection. 20 psi is 126.7 mph now. I can't imagine 27-31!

Good way to find out whether the overspin problem is instant death or not. Garrett rate their wheels to near-similar maximum RPM too and people don't really seem to care much about spinning them way past it

Please post results :P

4 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Good way to find out whether the overspin problem is instant death or not. Garrett rate their wheels to near-similar maximum RPM too and people don't really seem to care much about spinning them way past it

This is kind of a good point which I've been meaning to ask @Full-Race Geoff...  or anyone who has found anything, I've never seen any official Borg Warner documentation on the maximum recommended turbine speed for any of their EFR range - same goes the Garrett range?!

They both have the rpm lines on compressor maps, but there is nothing stated to indicate that any of those imply a maximum rpm - which from all I can tell is treated like a single magic number.  Is there any information available we can refer to?  There has been much noise made about how risky it is to go past the max rpm of any of these turbochargers but without that max rpm I feel awkward sometimes bringing it up without any supplied information.  One of the justifications given for the EFR9174 existing is that it allows for more rpm safely, which implies that the compressor wants to spin faster than the turbine can happily spin at - but that is a number which we are not given... obviously going off the compressor map will result in rpm skyrocketing to try and move any more air as compressor efficiency plummets but surely the intention of the 9174 isn't to encourage running the compressor into uncharted territory?

Clarification would be awesome :)

 

4 hours ago, Lithium said:

This is kind of a good point which I've been meaning to ask @Full-Race Geoff...  or anyone who has found anything, I've never seen any official Borg Warner documentation on the maximum recommended turbine speed for any of their EFR range - same goes the Garrett range?!

They both have the rpm lines on compressor maps, but there is nothing stated to indicate that any of those imply a maximum rpm - which from all I can tell is treated like a single magic number.  Is there any information available we can refer to?  There has been much noise made about how risky it is to go past the max rpm of any of these turbochargers but without that max rpm I feel awkward sometimes bringing it up without any supplied information.  One of the justifications given for the EFR9174 existing is that it allows for more rpm safely, which implies that the compressor wants to spin faster than the turbine can happily spin at - but that is a number which we are not given... obviously going off the compressor map will result in rpm skyrocketing to try and move any more air as compressor efficiency plummets but surely the intention of the 9174 isn't to encourage running the compressor into uncharted territory?

Clarification would be awesome :)

 

I've got the EFR speed sensor on my S15 (SR20DET). Hits 29psi and tapers to ~23psi. This peaks up at ~140,000rpm (can't remember exact figure). Max turbine speed for each EFR turbo is well documented, pretty sure it's in the manual. My 7163 is 'rated' to 150,600 rpm. Full-Race website lists that the EFR 9174 turbine RPM 'max' is 125,000rpm.

 

I bought the sensor so I could push the turbo to it's top end limit on my engine and still feel a little 'safe' in that it was still within manufacturers specs.

9 minutes ago, MaximuSmurf said:

I've got the EFR speed sensor on my S15 (SR20DET). Hits 29psi and tapers to ~23psi. This peaks up at ~140,000rpm (can't remember exact figure). Max turbine speed for each EFR turbo is well documented, pretty sure it's in the manual. My 7163 is 'rated' to 150,600 rpm. Full-Race website lists that the EFR 9174 turbine RPM 'max' is 125,000rpm.

 

Awesome, obviously I am missing something then - I've tried looking and so far can't find it, can you please point me at somewhere which either 

a) Specifies specifically that the turbine speed should not exceed 150,600rpm (which is coincidentally the last rpm line on the compressor map, which doesn't have to mean that it's at all linked to max turbine wheel speed

b) Clarifies that the compressor map is constructed to sit within the confines of the maximum speed you should spin the turbine to.

?

I research these things quite thoroughly and I've not seen anything beyond the Full-Race website's "125,000rpm" limit mentioned - that is the only time I've seen a limit mentioned, and it doesn't refer to any Borg Warner official specs I've seen, and I've certainly not seen that in any of the Borg Warner spec sheets I've looked at.  If you are investing heaps of money and intend on pushing hard it really would be nice to have some more clearly communicated specs on this.

I'm not saying that they aren't there, but I have no found anything which I consider clear and exact so admit that I may have missed it but I'm certainly not the only one who hasn't seen it specifically outlined for the whole range and would benefit from that being clarified, so pointing it out would be very appreciated!

Edited by Lithium

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...