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450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought?

either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned right

7 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought?

either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned right

Agreed. I've seen a couple on SR20DET's and SR20VET's and they're running 360-390rwkw. Mostly to err massively on the side of safety and longevity.

Here is the latest iteration on the 9180 13B set up, WM50 upgraded and testing many parts, all in the search for durability, Power is easy but unicorn is a Turbo Rotary Mazda that actually lasts... drugracers and TA one lap wonders need not apply lol :P

FBI5yEC.jpg

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  • Haha 1
19 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought?

either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned right

I agree, it is similar to a GTX3076R with a larger turbine side, i.e 3576. (wheel is actually a little larger than a 35r wheel)

The question really is how much power does @ActionDan intend to track his car with.
350 all day? 7670 with room to spare.

7163 if 300 is fine for you. Still would consider external gating it due to what @MaximuSmurf mentioned earlier.

Sadly there is nothing in between the 7163 and 7670.

17 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Sadly there is nothing in between the 7163 and 7670.

7064 is still a good turbo!  the YB cosworth guys are over the moon for this... older tech 2L engines like sr20 and 3s seem to love the 7064 due to lower emap up top and easy to run external WG on twinscroll (compared to 7163)

4 hours ago, Full-Race Geoff said:

7064 is still a good turbo!  the YB cosworth guys are over the moon for this... older tech 2L engines like sr20 and 3s seem to love the 7064 due to lower emap up top and easy to run external WG on twinscroll (compared to 7163)

Haha I just recently saw a tuning post from a YB guy complaining about how rubbish the twin scroll 7064 is and that his old T3 was better.  I suspect very much it's a setup issue as I know the 7064 isn't rubbish, but still amusing

I would have been happy with a "73.5/67" should one have existed, mainly to fill the gap of "I want something that maxes out at 350/370rwkw.

Which has always been a pretty decent spot for 90's turbo Nissans with everything else taken into account.

 

5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I would have been happy with a "73.5/67" should one have existed, mainly to fill the gap of "I want something that maxes out at 350/370rwkw.

Which has always been a pretty decent spot for 90's turbo Nissans with everything else taken into account.

Your setup would have been great, if the motor was assembled properly ?

I assure you it was - The problem in the end was I didn't realize how atrocious all other setups actually were in the real world. You can get used to anything it turns out! Everything else I drove I was sorely disappointed in. The hype of these things and larger displacement IS real - I just experienced the difference between them backwards.

17 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I assure you it was - The problem in the end was I didn't realize how atrocious all other setups actually were in the real world. You can get used to anything it turns out! Everything else I drove I was sorely disappointed in. The hype of these things and larger displacement IS real - I just experienced the difference between them backwards.

Ports were mismatched to the gasket, valves ever so slightly kissed the pistons, low use motor but scoring on bearings....

I did manage to get the initial turbo acceleration up to 90,000rpm/sec on a 1/2 gear shift on the Datsun (instantly jumps to 5psi boost) with some basic tricks on normal driving closed throttle gear shift giving more turbine energy. But once this is consumed then its back to its normal 'slow' turbine accel rate, so it is what it is basically, just put it down to this engine type.

On 7/19/2018 at 10:20 PM, RICE RACING said:

Datsun in back ground..... needed a DICKASS full brake upgrade, bedding in brakes now :)

Slightly offtopic - is that a tablet in the center console?

If yes, what software does it use to display stuff? Windows or Android and what app?

Thanks ?

 

@Topic:

My car currently has some issues with my IWG 7064 spooling about ~600 RPM later than normal.

Had full boost @ around 3k RPM before, now it feels laggier and has full boost @ around 3,6-3,7k RPM.

Feels a little like running a silencer.

Already checked exhaust (running 3" custom made with exhaust flap) for problems, but catalysator is still intact, flap still working as intended and no other blockages.

Intake side of turbo looks normal, exhaust side would need downpipe removal (didn't do that yet).

Collegue mentioned it could be the spring in the wastegate actuator is either not preloaded correctly (screws would have to come lose?) or just can't hold the wastegate shut at low RPM. It has about 20k miles on it already, so who knows?

Looking at getting a turbo smart 2 port actuator anyway, so will be probably tackle that over the next week/months. Sadly you need a new 4-port mac valve as well for that, which the my local supplier doesn't sell.

Another thing to change would be the amount of blow off valves I have (yeah, you read that right) - I'm currently using the internal EFR blow off, as well as a HKS SSQV. Local supplier wondered how the hell we got that setup working and strongly suggested to remove one of the blow offs. Which will probably be the EFR blow off, not for technical reasons but mainly for the nicer sound of the HKS (form/sound follows function for me on this one).

 

Current spec list (no changes since the last mapping session till the problem presented itself some time ago):

RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket)
Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG
6boost exhaust manifold
Plazmaman intake manifold
(noname) big FMIC 
Apexi air intake
7xx cc Bosch injectors
LS2 coils
Walbro fuel pump
Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex)
custom 3" downpipe & exhaust
Link G4 ECU

 

May be someone wants to take a guess ?

Run a de-cat or test pipe as you yanks call them and yes delete one of BOVs. I suggest the gay SSQV. It's not The Fast and The Furious.

And yeah run a new actuator. Those BW are known to be lazy and somewhat useless.

2 hours ago, MotHot said:

My car currently has some issues with my IWG 7064 spooling about ~600 RPM later than normal.

Had full boost @ around 3k RPM before, now it feels laggier and has full boost @ around 3,6-3,7k RPM.

Feels a little like running a silencer.

Already checked exhaust (running 3" custom made with exhaust flap) for problems, but catalysator is still intact, flap still working as intended and no other blockages.

Looking at getting a turbo smart 2 port actuator anyway, so will be probably tackle that over the next week/months. Sadly you need a new 4-port mac valve as well for that, which the my local supplier doesn't sell.

May be someone wants to take a guess ?

OK, in terms of exhaust noise vs diagnosing this kind of thing - even if the exhaust itself hasn't suffered a collapsed muffler or cat (worth investigating) the sound can change and hint at other issues.

- Suddenly louder can mean the wastegate is jammed open for some reason, or had some kind of mechanical failure.  Remember, it leaks exhaust past the turbo which will be the most effective muffler in your exhaust

- Suddenly quieter on full boost could mean your wg is not opening as much, or at all.   This could suggest a boost leak or something along those lines - meaning your boost control is going full effort to try and hit target boost, and there isn't as much (or any) exhaust being bypassed around the turbine... DEFINITELY something you want to sort if it is happening.

You shouldn't need a 4-port mac valve for a 2port actuator.  You can actually use two 3ports plumbed to push and pull to similar effect, as well.  

 

 

you can also run with with a 3 port just like a normal single port gate aswell (lower port open to atmo), while you're waiting on parts, and at least you will have a newer/better(maybe?) actuator on there.

Speaking of that I need to figure out why i was getting 4 port issues with mine, ramp rate too fast etc full boost only at a low duty cycle % and next time i drove the car after the tune it was spiking past 2 bar. Bit of a shame as i feel that the 3 port certainly is doughier down low.

 

Also, as much as i miss the the standard gtr BOV's, the integrated BOV with a 3.5" stainless intake and pod filter makes all of the ridiculous noises one could ever want anyway

4 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

you can also run with with a 3 port just like a normal single port gate aswell (lower port open to atmo), while you're waiting on parts, and at least you will have a newer/better(maybe?) actuator on there.

Speaking of that I need to figure out why i was getting 4 port issues with mine, ramp rate too fast etc full boost only at a low duty cycle % and next time i drove the car after the tune it was spiking past 2 bar. Bit of a shame as i feel that the 3 port certainly is doughier down low.

 

Also, as much as i miss the the standard gtr BOV's, the integrated BOV with a 3.5" stainless intake and pod filter makes all of the ridiculous noises one could ever want anyway

Ooops yeah, I meant to say the 2x 3port is an alternative to a 4port BUT you can also run a single 3 port.

We are actually going to test 2x 3ports and a dual port actuator on the EFR7064/RB25 combo I tune because it's annoying having what seems like a clear amount of flow headroom but an internal gate setup which just won't stay shut.  

16 hours ago, MotHot said:

Slightly offtopic - is that a tablet in the center console?

If yes, what software does it use to display stuff? Windows or Android and what app?

Thanks ?

Yo, Thomas.

It is a Life Racing D5 dash unit, I use them in all my cars running full F88/S8 or higher LR/Syvecs ECU's, great piece with my own bespoke screens configurations etc.

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