Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This anyone on here?

Specs from the description-

RB26, EFR8474 with 1.05 rear, E85, 6Boost, Twin 40mm wastegates, 4” exhaust, EMTRON ECU.
 

Makes me think 550kW atw might be out of reach for mine as the specs of this car are quite similar to mine bar mine being a 3L bottom end.  Then again the 3L is nearly 9% bigger than a 2.6L so maybe!  Will find out at the end of the month I guess!  I’ll be stoked with whatever it makes to be honest, at least it will be finally running!

 

  • Like 2
59 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Tpecs from the description-

RB26, EFR8474 with 1.05 rear, E85, 6Boost, Twin 40mm wastegates, 4” exhaust, EMTRON ECU.
 

It's not all in...  

  • Like 1

It's bleeding off boost pretty heavily from peak torque rpm to redline. I'd say 550kw is doable. 

 

Unless it's being bled for turbo speed reasons, but it's impossible to tell if that's the case from the video. Based on comp map, 500kw is a fair way off Max airflow. 

  • Sad 1
On 04/11/2019 at 7:04 AM, burn4005 said:

It's bleeding off boost pretty heavily from peak torque rpm to redline. I'd say 550kw is doable. 

 

Unless it's being bled for turbo speed reasons, but it's impossible to tell if that's the case from the video. Based on comp map, 500kw is a fair way off Max airflow. 

Thats mine. It's being bled off boost for emap reasons. If I were you Shoot a 77 with a 3.0 bottom end I'd be going a 1.45 rear. Just my 2c. 

This also has leaking throttle body seals so the peak boost maybe a little high for the power for that reason. I can't justify pulling the manifold to fix the seals at this stage coz If I pull the stock manifold it'll stay off and I'll go a cpc/plaz with dbw to make the sequential better with flatshift. 

Put it this way power figure wise I'm out of fuel with 2x044s. Changing the setup to 2x540s in tank with a modified frenchys setup. 

@welshy_32ZILA firstly shit!!!!!  I've got twin 044's so I'm in strife...  What fuel lines and what size injectors?

1.45 arse end would definitely be the right size for mine but I honestly don't want/need 600+kW. 500-550 will be insane and require way more skill than I have to control it!

I love how you (or whoever filmed the dyno run) was giggling like a little school girl!  I'll be the same no doubt!

  • Like 1
40 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

@welshy_32ZILA firstly shit!!!!!  I've got twin 044's so I'm in strife...  What fuel lines and what size injectors?

1.45 arse end would definitely be the right size for mine but I honestly don't want/need 600+kW. 500-550 will be insane and require way more skill than I have to control it!

I love how you (or whoever filmed the dyno run) was giggling like a little school girl!  I'll be the same no doubt!

Hahahaha yea that was me mate. I was surprised it went 500 as that was never the aim.

Fuel system is -8 supply and -8 return and 1650cc boch motorsport injectors. As I mentioned I'm in the process of fitting 2x bosch 540 fuel pumps with radium check valves and a radium high flow fuel 10micron fuel filter. 

 

Ok, MAYBE I'll be ok then as I've got twin -6 feeds which should flow a fair bit more than a single -8. I'm running 2200cc injectors so they will be mire than adequate.  It will depend if it was the ability of the pumps to push more or the capacity or the size of the hose to flow more volume. One way to find out!  I really don't want to have to upgrade my fuel system at this point....

Nah it was just the fuel pumps out of flow. But they are over 2yrs old now and not sure how much work they'd done before that as they come on the car when I bought it. I'd say you will be fine. I'll be keen to see your results as im soon to have a 26/30 in the shed as a incentive  for the current motor to stay together. 

I'm currently having a rb26/30 built. I have an EFR 9274 1.05 ar right now, but I'm wondering if I should step up to the 1.45 housing? Its primarily a street car that i take to the circuit track occassionally. 

10:1 comp ratio cp pistons 

Saenz tri beam rods

Balanced and cryo treated stock crank

Billet main caps and block brace 

CNC ported intake and exhaust ports 

Kelford 182-S cams 274/270 duration 10.5mm lift

Hypertune turbo manifold 

Twin Tial 44mm wastegates 

Full 4 inch exhaust 

Plazmaman 76mm intercooler

Haltech elite 2500

PRP trigger kit 

 

 

In my opinion for a street car I’d be sticking with the 1.05.   It will be more usable and responsive.    I used a 0.92 IWG on an RB26/30 and it was good.  Yes it opened up a bit with the 1.05 I’m using now but I’m on the fence about the improvment.

if you have a sequential then sure go 1.45 as you will always be able to pluck the right gear and “response” will be good.

13 hours ago, Timmaz300 said:

I'm currently having a rb26/30 built. I have an EFR 9274 1.05 ar right now, but I'm wondering if I should step up to the 1.45 housing? Its primarily a street car that i take to the circuit track occassionally. 

There is no real data out on this kind of combo but I personally have been unsure whether even the EFR9280 would have enough exhaust flow for the 92mm compressor on an RB even with the 1.45 housing, let along the EFR9274 - granted the 9274 compressor is a bit smaller, but still.

I wouldn't have run smaller than 1.45 on tbag combo on a strong RB30, really I would have just gone EFR9280 - if that was too big then the EFR8474 would be a better match but could prove to be entirely wrong.  Will be very interested to know how it goes, probably make it easier to make a call on it if someone tries it but that clearly makes you a guinea pig but again - if you had to go 9274 on an RB30 then I personally would have pushed for the 1.45 hotside.

12 hours ago, R32 TT said:

In my opinion for a street car I’d be sticking with the 1.05.   It will be more usable and responsive.    I used a 0.92 IWG on an RB26/30 and it was good.  Yes it opened up a bit with the 1.05 I’m using now but I’m on the fence about the improvment.

if you have a sequential then sure go 1.45 as you will always be able to pluck the right gear and “response” will be good.

Which turbo do you have?  For some reason I thought it was an 8374, in which case Your experience probably wouldn't really translate well as the 9274 has almost 40% more airflow potential that the exhaust flow of the setup has to be able to support.

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, burn4005 said:

all you guys with EFR8474/EFR9280s are taking your time to get them running!

One of the chaps I know went from a 1.05a/r 9180 to a 1.45a/r 9280, in all honesty I was slightly underwhelmed by the results but it actually seems like the tune was not fully aggressive etc - its on a drift car and the main aim was to bring EMAP and turbine speed down while running the same kind of power as the 9180 was so it was never run on kill.

It made 700kw @ hubs at 28psi on an RB32 on E85 and was a few hundred rpm laggier than the old 1.05 EFR9180.   From memory it was around 110,000rpm turbine speed and not full MBT timing, EMAP was creeping up by this point (it was already past 1:1 on 24psi) , and is noticably laggier apparently.  It went from under 620kw @ hubs to 650kw on the same boost (~24psi) so definitely breathes easier.

Well I have been massively held up by suppliers - mine should have been ready 6 months ago - but its gone around in circles and frankly hasn't been a good experience.    No point dwelling on that though.

That said - things are FINALLY coming together and so I hope to have mine going sometime in early/mid Feb.  There is still a bit to do.

It will be 3.2L Nitto, 8474 / 1.05,  Kelford 272 10.8mm/Beehives/Ti Retainers , Light head work with 1mm oversize valves,  Dry Sump.

(the old motor was 3.0L, 8374 / 1.05 (previously 0.92 IWG), HKS 264 10mm, 9L Wet sump with various breathing mods etc.)

Don't expect more than 530-550kW at hubs at 25psi - but hoping for strong delivery from 3500 through to 7500rpm.   May need a cam change to help - we will see.     And I guess we are going to see what eMAP we get.  I'm hopeful it will remain under 1.5:1 and I'll be happy with that.

Please, could you all take moment to close your eyes and think happy thoughts for my Syncro PPG gearset.

 

  • Like 1

@R32 TT sounds like it's going to be a beast!!!!

I think you're a bit conservative on your power number if you're talking E85?  With a 3.2 I'd have thought it would push into the upper 500's kW mark.

Look forward to seeing it come together!

 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Shoota_77 said:

@R32 TT sounds like it's going to be a beast!!!!

I think you're a bit conservative on your power number if you're talking E85?  With a 3.2 I'd have thought it would push into the upper 500's kW mark.

Look forward to seeing it come together!

 

Would think if it’s going hard at 3500rpm ,530 / 550kw would be close

i wanted the 8474 before I did the final mods ? last mods ?but couldn’t get one or even be told when they were going to be available  

Can’t stop thinking about getting the 8474 and 1.45ar just to see how much difference it makes at both ends on my setup 

trouble is , getting both knees replaced in March and not sure how it will be driving a stick for a while but it would be a perfect time to get the work done while I recover from the operation ?

Fn cars, they get into your blood at all ages?

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...