Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 24/05/2020 at 3:45 AM, RB335 said:

Making 50% of max power by 4500, that's amazing.  Tempting me to switch from my 8474 to twin 6258s

Is anybody able to take measurements of the EFR9280 compressor, I'm seeing if I have enough clearance on my engine to run and test it compared to the 9180 which I have on me which fit fine on a 6boost T4 in a R33 GTR engine bay

I don't think it's that shocking on an RB30, it's good but it's not unheard of at all.   I think if you get the EFR8474 running on a good (/similar) RB30 setup you'd not be left feeling disappointed.

  • Like 1

THAT! ^^^^ Not trying to take anything away from that result as it's no doubt a f**king fast car! BUT an 8474 or above will go toe to toe with that all day. Particularly down low /midrange power. 

  • Like 1

I'm gonna change my setup now. The PT6466 System is going for sale because I'm looking for a different driving style.

Will try the EFR 7670 with a 1.05 EWG and a 6 boost manifold with 2x40mm wastegates and im curious to see what it's gonna be. Aim is to come close to 550 engine horses on 100 octan.
Hope it brings some fresh wind :D

Edited by meX

Question!

Who has used a TurboSmart replacement BOV that fits in the OEM position?  And if so has anyone actually noted a difference?

There appears to be a suggestion the factory one may leak - but I don't know if that's true or not.  I don't see how I can measure either - so the only way to find out is replace and see (which is an expensive experiment if it does nothing)

And Turbosmart appear to offer two variants:

https://turbosource.com/products/turbosmart-kompact-shortie-plumb-back-efr-bov-upgrade

https://turbosource.com/products/turbosmart-kompact-shortie-dual-port-efr-bov-upgrade

Any feedback ?

 

 

1 hour ago, R32 TT said:

There appears to be a suggestion the factory one may leak - but I don't know if that's true or not.  I don't see how I can measure either

You can test if the factory one is opening under boost by simply blocking it off with a coke can gasket. You're not looking for the differences anywhere except when making boost.

2 hours ago, R32 TT said:

Question!

Who has used a TurboSmart replacement BOV that fits in the OEM position?  And if so has anyone actually noted a difference?

There appears to be a suggestion the factory one may leak - but I don't know if that's true or not.  I don't see how I can measure either - so the only way to find out is replace and see (which is an expensive experiment if it does nothing)

And Turbosmart appear to offer two variants:

https://turbosource.com/products/turbosmart-kompact-shortie-plumb-back-efr-bov-upgrade

https://turbosource.com/products/turbosmart-kompact-shortie-dual-port-efr-bov-upgrade

Any feedback ?

 

 

I had the dual port turbosmart bov on my 7163 to help with compressor surge on throttle lift off. No longer an issue with the 8374, so if you'd like a cheaper 2nd hand one let me know.

The other main difference is adjustable spring tension for the given vacuum of the engine.

11 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You can test if the factory one is opening under boost by simply blocking it off with a coke can gasket. You're not looking for the differences anywhere except when making boost.

In this case by factory/OEM I think that's referring to the standard EFR integrated BOV, not the Nissan one. I don't think you can block off the EFR one with a coke can.

23 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

But, you may be able to do something equivalent. ie, make a plug that can replace it.

indeed... https://www.turbosmart.com/product/bov-blanking-plate-for-borg-warner-efr-kkk-and-ecoboost-turbochargers/

 

yep i have a 6 boost with single divided outlet, 8374 1.05 on a 2.6l rb26

50mm progate, 7psi spring a 4 port mac valve.

no creep above 10psi of boost. below this you are asking too much flow through the gate. the lowest boost run was with the boost solenoid unplugged from ecu.

dyno.jpg.6cbb35ab9e99fa412a875b1f8824b75d.jpg

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 3
56 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

yep i have a 6 boost with single divided outlet, 8374 1.05 on a 2.6l rb26

50mm progate, 7psi spring a 4 port mac valve.

no creep above 10psi of boost. below this you are asking too much flow through the gate. the lowest boost run was with the boost solenoid unplugged from ecu.

dyno.jpg.6cbb35ab9e99fa412a875b1f8824b75d.jpg

great result, is max boost around 28psi? i have same turbo setup, except will be on 2.8 with vcam, looks like i need to step it up to 8474 at the very least

I would definately go a 8474. this turbo is at absolute full speed. on the 490kw trace you can see the boost drop at 7500rpm. that is the boost target dropping to stop it going over 128krpm.

this is the VE calculated airflow ive overlayed over the compressor map. nothing left.

8374.png.ae22450840399bd1576ae84f0bd7eebb.pngthis is the VE

 

  • Like 1
On 24/05/2020 at 1:45 AM, RB335 said:

Making 50% of max power by 4500, that's amazing.  Tempting me to switch from my 8474 to twin 6258s

Is anybody able to take measurements of the EFR9280 compressor, I'm seeing if I have enough clearance on my engine to run and test it compared to the 9180 which I have on me which fit fine on a 6boost T4 in a R33 GTR engine bay

got dyno chart, i recall you also running 2.8 with vcam

  • 3 weeks later...

EFR6758, anyone know what the thread size/pitch is on the front housing cover for the boost reference signal? I looked through the EFR turbo tech guide but couldn't find it. Need to convert it to a -3AN fitting. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...