Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The new genV turbosmart twin port is probably the way to go. It has a better lower seal and a universal joint to the wastegate actuator arm. I wasn't very impressed with the first two versions (non twin port and the first twin port) but the latest one should be good. Use a low pressure spring or it'll be too sensitive.

The e-iwg cost wasn't too bad (less than the turbosmart actually), but yes, you will have to adapt it to fit and have an ecu that can drive it.

Position data is nice.

Edited by taijohnsen
8 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

The e-iwg cost wasn't too bad (less than the turbosmart actually), but yes, you will have to adapt it to fit and have an ecu that can drive it.

Position data is nice.

I thought the supra parts were already a few hundred bucks alone?

Do you have a list of items that are needed for the e-iwg?

Can't seem to find anything useful with google.

The genV twin port is $500ish AUD and the std one is $300ish AUD. I managed to get the e-iwg landed from USA for $350 AUD.

A bit of 3D printing and a carton of beer sorted the rest.

More pics in my thread http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/263854/354587.html

Hey Tai!

Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish.

Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there.

The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league.

Another question though:

With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max?

Thanks and have a nice weekend!

Now that my build is finished after 2 long years being off the road I can finally contribute to this thread with my EFR results.

EFR 8374 1.05 A/R

Racepace built RB28

9:5:1 compression ratio spool pistons

Nitto I beam rods

Spool billit 2.8 stroker crankshaft 

PRP engine brace

HKS step 2 valve springs

6 boost manifold 

Turbosmart 60mm wastegate

Nitto oil pump

Racepace custom 3.5” dump pipe & cat

Tomei extreme titanium cat back 

Plazmaman 100mm intercooler

PRP trigger kit

PRP R35 coil kit

Tomei cam gears 

Haltech elite 2500

Bosch 1650cc injectors with flex fuel

Nismo front LSD

Racepace transfer case upgrade

Plus many more mods

Made 504.9kw 25psi on E85

Couldn’t be anymore happier with the result and build. Turbo feels awesome and love the responsiveness. 

0B64DAA0-72F6-4EB5-B551-FDDCDFFC95C6.jpeg

C55780D3-3032-4D10-9AAE-1236B1B1442A.jpeg

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, burn4005 said:

Roller speed axis should be made illegal.

What gearbox, diff ratios, rims and tyres?

I agree..    based on my own car that would be boost in at around 4100rpm I think.

But why they don't use RPM is beyond me.

Gearbox stock, diff ratio stock, rims volk GT-C 19x10.5 pirelli p zero 275 and cams are stock atm because mine are on back order. Have a set of mines super shore pro camshafts just waiting till they arrive and will get them installed. Tune has been wound back to 460kw @ 23psi while the engine is being ran in and till the cams arrive.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/9/2021 at 8:44 AM, MotHot said:

Hey Tai!

Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish.

Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there.

The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league.

Another question though:

With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max?

Thanks and have a nice weekend!

Thanks MotHot,

It has been a long build, but I have enjoyed the journey for the most part :)

Sorry for the delayed response, but the tuner took a while to get back to me with the logs.

The internal power calcs of the EMtron say 350kw engine, this run was 350rwkw @ the wheels (roller)

turboRPM.png

01jzzdyno.JPG

Edited by taijohnsen
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/9/2021 at 3:34 PM, R32 TT said:

I agree..    based on my own car that would be boost in at around 4100rpm I think.

But why they don't use RPM is beyond me.

Because who gives a shit about rpm.. road speed is where it counts!!! :)

 

Lol, all you stroker big block RB boys would realise your better served by laggy RB20s that rev to 10,000rpm with 4.6 diff :)

 

 

  • Haha 3
  • Confused 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hello, could you guys help me choose between 8374 and 8474, both with 1.05 housings, for 2jz ge non vvti engine. Quick specs are 9.5CR, BC264 cams, sligthly ported head. The target is 650 to around 700whp with best spool and response and 7500 to maximum 7800rpm limit. Is the 8374 be enough or 8474 will be needed for those goals? Fuel will be E100. Thank you in advance!

Matchbot will tell you there is no way an 8374 should be on a 3.0L RB.   

That said, I ran mine happily for some years at sub 120krpm making 650-700hp at hubs and spinning to 7000-7500rpm on both 3.0 and now Nitto 3.2.  Intake temps were ok - but it didn't want to make any more power.  It has finally let go just two weekends ago.    We had recently added launch control which may or may not have contributed (or at least shortened its life).     Everything on Matchbot says its should be overspeeding, but I've got logs to show it wasn't (unless there is an issue with what/how we are reading) - so I am not sure how this correlates to Matchbot..  perhaps the default VE figures are different enough to affect it?  

I've also run an 8474 on same engine (3.2L, both 1.05 rear) and it definitely feels laggier than the 8374.  On a dyno plot its only about 200rpm later coming on, but in practice, on a rally sprint coming off 2nd gear corners, you notice the difference.  Also between gear transient response is dulled a bit.

8474 makes about 50hp at the hubs more on same boost (750hp at 23-26psi) , temps post turbo (pre intercooler) are only 10 degree cooler. And post cooler can't see a difference.  Definitely when in the mid-range revs and up you feel the extra legs it has.

So!  for me, on a 3.0-3.2L  I'd be going 8474 and altering gearing to suit what you're doing,  and keep it a bit further up the rev range.    

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...