Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello!

I just recently had my Timing belt done and all the accesories, tensioners/pulleys etc. The shop who did the job is very reputable and have done many jobs like this before.
So when I got my car back I didn't notice anything, the car sounded fine. Drove it home, (3 hour journey) and just as im arriving when I do a pull from 1st gear in the parking space I hear a whinning noise from the engine? Was pretty tired so decided to look it up the next day. I read through some forum posts with people who experienced similar problems. That their belt would make squeaky noises, when warmed up mostly and around idle. In my case this is what i've discovered so far: Noise is there both when the engine is cold and warmed up and only seems to be apparent from 1000--1500rpm. Anyone have any ideas what this noise can be?!? More frustrating than anything!

The timing belt kit installed is a Blueprint oem replacement.

Video how it sounds: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OEsFwTc3Rp0

  •  
Edited by KLA33E
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466669-timing-belt-noise/
Share on other sites

Unfortunately non OEM belts can be noisy.

My V-Spec II had a Gates belt on it and it was ridiculously loud,

Another GT-R I had had a very expensive competition belt on it and it was even worse!

Both were replaced with OEM and they were as quiet as a mouse.

You simply can't beat a genuine OEM Nissan belt from Nissan for noise.

Bob.

  • Like 3

I have a Gates racing belt on my 34R. Sounds very similar to the video you posted. As people have said, aftermarket (gates) are notoriously noisy.

My Gates has been on the car now for 20 Thou K's. No issues

(Update) We loosened everything up, starting with the easy stuff, servo, ac, and so. Noise was still there so we removed the timing belt. Then discovered that the tensioner pulley had residues of rubber on it from the belt probably? So the tensioner pulley was taken off and inspected for damage but seemed fine. Everything was removed and installed back together.

So my guess is the belt was put on a little bit too tight. The tension was doubled checked. Anyway the car is much quieter now, but I can still hear a small belt noise on idle but it goes away when the car warms up and introduces another sound (when warm) when you rev the car and it drops off at 1000rpm.

Overall I reckon the car is quieter now than before but not perfect. Guess i'll just have to drive it for a while and see if it goes away and if not, I may replace it with an Oem Nissan belt. 

 

Edited by KLA33E

Same issue on my R33 S2
Timing belt done at 140ks, factory belt... Purred like a kitten before.

Approx week after getting it back it developed the exact same noise.

Was told that it maybe evident prior to even getting done and sure enough it turned up a week later.

As we all find out OEM just can't be beaten for it.

Pretty sure mine was a gates belt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
    • 100% is gyprock, I agree. Slip of the keyboard. Haha! I left my indicator bulbs out to save a bit of weight.
×
×
  • Create New...