Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone identify what the go is with this manifold? I've seen many rb20det-r/Gts-r manifolds and I know what they are but I've never seen one like this...The owner claims it's an Autech rb20

I was meant to be buying it from him but after seeing photos I've been put off..... Very strange looking manifold..

9742fc87a7ae072c7f851bd638b061f7.jpg0b2c09a71bb0becc77bacfe5c8989fc4.jpg3dbf792e880a7af682651ea764119f15.jpgfaca9ed762e6b38c2b2c4666a1c5a807.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466767-gts-r-manifold-like-ive-never-seen/
Share on other sites

Why wouldn't it be an Autech made manifold?  It's certainly not the Nissan one like your second post.  The collectors for that manifold are quite difficult to fabricate, being made out of 2 halves stamped out in a press.  The "Autech" one almost looks as if it is made the same way, but with the 3 runner arranged on a curve instead of a straight line like the Nissan one.

 

FWIW, no amount of my google-fu could turn up another image of an Autech RB20 manifold.

Even the bolts that hold the cover to the exhaust manifold are different to mine. Looks like someone has tried to copy it? Not sure but doesn't look like mine at all with the cover off.

I know I have seen some Autech manifolds but I cannot remember what they look like.

Even the bolts that hold the cover to the exhaust manifold are different to mine. Looks like someone has tried to copy it? Not sure but doesn't look like mine at all with the cover off.

I know I have seen some Autech manifolds but I cannot remember what they look like.




You wanna sell yours? [emoji12]
12 minutes ago, LaurelPWR said:

 

 

 

 


You wanna sell yours? emoji12.png

 

 

Nah. Took me a year and a half to find a manifold, then another six months for a cover.

You wouldn't believe how many people want to buy it off me haha.

2 hours ago, Ad's said:

Nah. Took me a year and a half to find a manifold, then another six months for a cover.

You wouldn't believe how many people want to buy it off me haha.

Add me to the list.

 

I'd need a r31 to put it into but that's the easy part. :P

DSC02087.jpg

Yeah Autech GTS-R manifold. There was a good picture comparing R31House vs. Autech vs. standard GTS-R manifolds but can't find it any more.

From memory, Autech has slightly shorter runners, or at least differently shaped.



Awesome thanks for that man! They don't appear to be anywhere near as good as the Gts-r manifold.... They don't look tuned length or a decent merge

The autech manifold appears to have the same flange as the r31 house in that pic and not a t25 flange as someone said earlier in the thread...

Just out of curiosity, would anyone be chasing an autech manifold?

AND

What would people be willing to pay for one??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...