Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New guy with M35

Hey guys,

I've just bought my first stagea after wanting one for ages. M35 bone stock apart from a set of rims.

I love it. It needs a few things doing to it but that's half the fun.

It came with a full service history so I hope it's been looked after.

The one problem I do have and I have read EVERY post in here about it is my 4WD light is on.

what makes this so different? Well after reading a thread in here on how to clear codes (turn on, press acc pedal 5 times etc) my light goes off. I drive it and I have functioning 4WD (split torque gauge works).

BUT when I re start the car [normally] the light will be on so I'll turn car off, go through the code clearing actions and BooM, all good ????

My intention is to try the relay under the airbox , failing that I'll bleed the lines of any air.

Has anyone else had what I have described ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466787-new-guy-with-m35/
Share on other sites

Thanks Josh.

Thanks to all the information in this forum that was the first thing I checked. Currently my level is just above full.

Would that amount prevent the pump from pressurizing the system?

Also do you have any idea as to why I can clear the code and it works fine only for the code to return?

I'm reading all about how our cars are NOT OBDII so clearing them could be a hassle.

  On 14/09/2016 at 3:10 AM, RSXVRider said:

Thanks Josh.

Thanks to all the information in this forum that was the first thing I checked. Currently my level is just above full.

Would that amount prevent the pump from pressurizing the system?

Also do you have any idea as to why I can clear the code and it works fine only for the code to return?

I'm reading all about how our cars are NOT OBDII so clearing them could be a hassle.

Expand  

I don't have a stag yet but about to own one. Has done a bit of researching on this issue as well as the car i'm getting having the same problem.

By the sound of it, if any luck, a flush + new fluid my help you. There is also a big fuse (?) (20amp) somewhere that can be replace to fix the issue as well. If all of those mentioned still dont' fix it, better start sourcing a secondhand unit as the $2 pressure switch (built in) is known to fail and Nissan won't sell them separate.

  On 14/09/2016 at 8:06 AM, RSXVRider said:

Thanks west.

Well ive just found out that if i start the car with the synchro switched on i dont get the 4WD light on.
Fully functional 4WD.
Weird right.... lol.

Expand  

Have heard of that as well but i'm afraid it's only a band-aid fix and not a long term solution, then again i could be wrong, only interpreting what i have read so far.

So i put my new relay in.
Statyed car. No 4ws light.
Small deive light stays off. Winning.
Turn car off.
Turn car on. Boom. 4wd light on again. Hmmmmmm.

Can anyone tell me what fuse is the 4wd? There are some big ones bwhind the battery but noting is labeled

It sounds like a pressure switch fault mate; very common. The best thing to do would be to get it on a scantool, and find out 100% what the fault is.

The fuse (it's more a fusible link) for the ATTESSA pump is in the block in front of the battery. 

It's labelled ETS from memory.

Thanks West. I hadn't seen that thread before.

I did try the disconnect single wire to the pump to bleed it but the pump wouldn't activate.

I'm going to give it another go on the weekend as i just read on another tread that you're supposed to bleed the gearbox nipple. I was attempting to bleed the ATTESSA pump nipple.

Plus one tread says to disconnect then bleed where as another one says to disconnect then re-connect straight away to bleed.

  On 26/09/2016 at 7:26 AM, RSXVRider said:

Thanks West. I hadn't seen that thread before.

I did try the disconnect single wire to the pump to bleed it but the pump wouldn't activate.

I'm going to give it another go on the weekend as i just read on another tread that you're supposed to bleed the gearbox nipple. I was attempting to bleed the ATTESSA pump nipple.

Plus one tread says to disconnect then bleed where as another one says to disconnect then re-connect straight away to bleed.

Expand  

From this thread?

 

So after re reading all the threads I managed to work out the correct way to bleed the ATTESSA pump.

There was a ton of huge air bubbles in the line so I was quietly confident that was my problem.

I flushed the entire system with new fluid just to find my light is still on ..... Grrrrrrr

Well at least I know my pump actually works...

  On 27/09/2016 at 5:10 AM, RSXVRider said:

So after re reading all the threads I managed to work out the correct way to bleed the ATTESSA pump.

There was a ton of huge air bubbles in the line so I was quietly confident that was my problem.

I flushed the entire system with new fluid just to find my light is still on ..... Grrrrrrr

Well at least I know my pump actually works...

Expand  

So what's your method of doing it?

1. Prepare. Bleed hose on nipple of the transfer case (just behind trans on drivers side). Open ATTESSA fluid bottle with funnel in.

2. Turn key to ACCESSORY on. Don't start car. 

3. Disconnect the pump wire 10cm up from the OBDII connector. Leave it disconnected. You will hear the pump 'cycle' ONCE.

4. Using 10mm open ring spanner, loosen bleed nipple. As the seal breaks open the pump will cycle in a 'rhythm'. as you undo the bleed screw more the 'rhythm' becomes a constant purge from the pump."

5. Go to the back of the car and as the funnel is already in your canister, simple pour more fluid in.

6. Over fill (past the line) in order to give you time to get back under the car and close the bleed valve.

7. Reconnect the single wire connector for the pump.

8. Turn key back to OFF.

9. Check fluid level.

  On 27/09/2016 at 5:19 AM, West said:

Wrecker, Facebook, Gumtree ......etc. 

Expand  

Found one being wrecked through a friend of mine.

Apparently he has a wrecked M35 that says I can have the pump if needed........ Score.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That may not be so tricky with a changeover relay (again, with LED indicator only to reduce load on existing headlight + source)  30 to indicator + globe side 86 and 87 to headlight parker + 87a to original indicator + chassis side 85 to chassis/earth repeat on each corner, sorted, no diode required
    • There might have been some "hard core" decalcification going on in the cells to create that noise As for chargers, I stick all our cars on a trickle charger every few months to "clean out their pipes/cells", the Mrs battery in her Mistsu ASX is still running its OEM from new battery 10 years on, and that thing does alot of short drives, and it can sit around for ages without a good long run
    • I'm not sure the diode only will give the desired result. I'd probably approach it with a couple of relays (And you still might need a diode too!). You need to be able to break the constant feed from the headlight to the orange corner globe when the indicator is flashing. Not knowing which Skyline we're talking about specifically here too (And it may not matter, but I don't know the R34 column switches) you'd likely need to rewire the stalk, so that the indicator power itself no longer runs through the stalk too, as now you need it able to trigger a relay that will break the constant supply from the headlights to the indicator, then you'll need a separate relay to trigger the indicators to come on (Replacing the internal action of the indicator stalk).
    • Weird story from me My Toyota 86 was with Commbank comprehensive but for market value (who they use to underwrite is unknown) When I munted it beyond financially viable repair in 2020, rear end smashed in to the point it bent the rear quarter and roof, they knew I paid $31k cash for it because I told them, they still paid me out $38k, as all the 2017 limited edition variants with typical Km and condition were going for between $36-41k, so they did weird math and came up with $38k I never officially mentioned any of the mods that I had done, but as they were not the cause of the crash they were not fussed at all, the insurance inspector actually asked if I wanted to replace all the mods with the OEM stuff if I still had it laying around before they took the car I still came out of it behind though, because I had probably dropped $20k in it with the suspension (bent after the prang), wheels (bent as well) and "other" mods, that the inspector asked about But still, as the market value was higher than what I initially paid, and they paid out market value To say I was surprised with the outcome would be an understatement  Weird, but true, but probably just lucky with the inspector on the day I guess  Sadly, I don't think if I munted the old NC1 MX5 I would get the same result Meh, pay to play
    • Well, the car is back, all straight and shiny, for how long for is anyone's guess  After picking it up we went for a bit of a drive, Jebus I really enjoy driving this little thing, hopefully the weather let's us go for a nice long cruise this weekend as it will be out of my hands for at least a few days next week when it heads back into Mania on Monday It's weird, whilst I do always enjoy going for a drive, the NC makes me feel like a kid who has just got his first car, and they just want to drive wherever and whenever they can I really need to look into the MX5 Club of NSW
×
×
  • Create New...