Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Made some major changes to the car so the following parts are up for sale:

 

R34 GTt APEXi power FC with commander and boost controller- $700

PFC with hand controller, boost control kit harness, 3 bar pressure sensor and solenoid, great plug and play ecu and boost controller without having to cut and shut stock wiring, good condition had no issues, just selling since I decided to give e85 flex tune a go this time hence I'll need something different.

 

Hicas lock bar- $80

Comes with almost new tie rods, only used for less than 10000km, tightens the rear of the car and keep the back end planted. suits r33 and r34

 

Hardrace adjustable caster rod- $150

Adjustable caster rods, rubber version with the rubber replaced by Superpro urethane bushes, keeping it legal whilst getting a sharper steering

 suits r33 and r34 and maybe r32

 

Split dump- $50

Short split dump hks style to suit all rb20 and rb25 cars, heat wrapped, pulled 270rwkw with it on highflow turbo

 

Braided turbo lines (brand new)-$60

Mamba Braided water line x1 and braided oil line x1 to suit rb20 and rb25 standard turbo. Oil line suits standard ball bearing turbo, makes turbo installation and upgrades a walk in the park

 

Located in Sydney, Chatswood. PM if interested, happy to post at buyers expense.

Photos to come soon

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466810-lots-of-parts/
Share on other sites

 

Got brand new Blitz SBC spec S for sale - $350

Brand new still in box, only opened up to take photo

It is the latest model and it is much easier to tune than previous SBCs

Was going to put it on my car but decided to just use the used AVCR I have pulled out of my old car anyway. So here's your opportunity to grab a bargain!

Located in Sydney will post at buyers expenseef89186aeeba921e6f1c9b903a231230.jpg1fe17051130895fd194ea950994dd848.jpgc3dc73bbf51cb7aef6e0d8ceb7f9c692.jpg2b5f28e86746e4ccecd434b9886f0350.jpgef10ebc4b72d393e2e161e1dbc07a6ff.jpg

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466810-lots-of-parts/#findComment-7777659
Share on other sites

Price drop, SAU Special!

 

R34 GTt APEXi power FC with commander and boost controller- $650

Hicas lock bar- $70

Hardrace adjustable caster rod- $120

Split dump- $40

Braided turbo lines (brand new)-$40

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466810-lots-of-parts/#findComment-7777827
Share on other sites

Also got a set of bronze/ gold buddyclub P1 racing 2 wheels for sale- $650

Size: 19x8.5 +38 offset and 19x9.5 +45 offset

Comes with 235 wide tyres on the 8.5 inch wide wheels and 265 wide tyres on the 9.5 inch wide wheels. All tyres have approx 60-70% thread.

The front wheels will not clear gtst and gtt 4 pot calipers due to spoke design, may just clear if you grind the Nissan logo away from the caliper, but since it's advertised on SAU, I will throw in a set of high quality GKtech hubcentric spacers, 15mm billet aluminum with high tensile extended studs and wheel nuts to suit.

Should fit the non turbo r34 with ease however.

Aluminum hub rings also included as part of SAU special.

They'll fit R34 and R33 non GTR cars without guard work, it was fine on my car lowered by 30mm.

Selling because I need to clear up some space in my garage, plus needed funding to finish off work on my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466810-lots-of-parts/#findComment-7778281
Share on other sites

Still for sale:

Hicas lock bar- $70
Hardrace adjustable caster rod- $120
Split dump pipe- $40
Braided turbo lines (brand new)-$40

Surely there are some skylines out there still with leaky caster rod bushes and HICAS still attached. Good opportunity to upgrade the handling of your car without paying a premium!
The lock bar also comes with new tie rods and dust boot so you won't have to worry about getting new tie rods when you upgrade!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466810-lots-of-parts/#findComment-7778430
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which model Maxima? This is good knowledge to have.
    • I'm with GTS, that's not an actual overheat issue. That's an electrical issue.
    • So, it's clearly an electrical problem. Either with the gauge itself, or the sender. It appears to be voltage sensitive (ie, alternator output affects the reading.
    • Yes, at this stage of SAU threads, I  automatically assume that anyone here knows that everything depends on each and every setup and its choice of parts and what an individual wants from the setup. I think your misunderstanding what I've said, I'm not saying your curve will move to the right.. I'm stating the opposite; that my setup has a much larger turbo than my last one, my current exhaust manifold runners are 2-3x longer than the last one, the intercooler is longer and thicker (hks 103mm thick), the itbs are now oversized from 45mm up to 49mm, and the plenum is now a larger Nismo plenum that's been port matched. As a result, I'm making more power, torque and boost 1000rpm earlier than my last setup. My curve moved left, in a big way. You guys with 800-1000+hp turbos should be considering hks v-cam or the other Japanese company Sakura who makes RB25 Neo vct adaptor kits for RB26's. they all make more power / boost / torque far earlier and higher peak numbers. Dahtone Racing modifies the Hks v-cam systems to his own specs and he also developed the worlds first and best dbw individual throttle body kits, to complement his V-cam. Every single car is 800-1200+hp and they all produce huge gains in response and peak power. 
    • I have a 2008 Skyline 370gt with about 160,000 km on the clock currently. A while ago, I noticed the temp gauge would start climbing but it comes down when I give it some throttle. I took it into the shops. The technicians comments are transcripted below. Reported they couldn't find anything wrong with the vehicle mechanically and they pressure tested the cooling system. Funnily enough, the technician commented that the temperature dropped back down when the car is stationary but this is when I'd notice the temp gauge to be climbing. Just wondering if anyone else experienced anything similar to enlighten me? Cos at the onset, the temps were going up one tick and then comes back down when I step on it. Now, the temps are climbing all the way to the top of the gauge, and it's making me very nervous lol. It also doesn't come down to the neutral position anymore. PS I do have a small exhaust leak near the drivers side caused by when I got f**ked by a really steep driveway at a mall I never visited before. Not sure if this would affect the sensor. Technician comments: Check and verify Fan/Cooling system - ALL OK max 106*C and fans operating at 100% Cools down right away. Checked Fan Operation - 55%@101*C, 85% @ 104*C and 100% @ 105*C Vehicle did not exceed these temperatures with max load. Temperature recovered back to 99*C after fan operation while vehicle Stationary.
×
×
  • Create New...