Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spherical Bearings in Stock arms

I see a lot of ppl buying aftermarket arms, of course many want the adjustability however if you dont lower the car stupidly and dont need a fix roll centres etc I was wondering why dont more people take their strong and F*&K stock control arms, toe arms etc to a bearing place and get the rubber replaced with a solid bushing. 

Thinking of giving this a crack. Any thoughts or issues with this or has anyone got experience with doing it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466836-spherical-bearings-in-stock-arms/
Share on other sites

Having bent standard lower control arms and brackets in the front end if a R33, "strong as f**k" is probably not the word I would describe standard control arms. Not that I would recommend super strong control arms... I'd rather the arm bend or break in an accident rather than the mounting points on the body of the car.

The main issue I see with the idea of spherical bearings in standard arms is that the kind of person that wants to eliminate all potential slop in the suspension at the cost of NVH is also the kind of person that wants camber adjustment, which standard control arms simply provide hardly any in the rear end and absolutely none in the front. Not everyone uses adjustable for camber correction after "slamming" their car, some of us want -3 degrees for track days ;)

Here's the thing.  Of all the parts of an aftermarket suspension arm, the ONLY part that is not road legal is the spherical bearing.



My interpretation of the rules makes me think that you just need to get an engineer to sign off on it

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP11_Section_LS_Tyres_Suspension_Steering_Nov_2015_v4.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiwwNSJ6ZXPAhWEmZQKHQn5C_EQFgggMAI&usg=AFQjCNFZ6jheyXhqRGWl3zaZ7qbZSGK2hg&sig2=vBG4FoqZkRegERGwLHFkqQ

Page 25

Spherical bearings deal with arm-mount gross misalignment issues when altering ride height and alignment.

Otherwise stick with rubber.  Far more durable than uniballs on the road, and won't flog out like urethane.

Too many people zero-in on the idea of "removing slop", when their changes have fundamentally shifted the alignment away from "right".  Adjustable length arms are far more important to making the car handle and feel right once moving away from stock.

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, Cassbo said:


My interpretation of the rules makes me think that you just need to get an engineer to sign off on it

 

 

 

Talk to an engineer Matt, and see how they interpret that.  Perhaps they will.

Quick count I think there's at least 16 pivots/mounts that could go to uniball in an R chassis.  At ~ $100 per joint for quality replacement (no sane person would install low quality sphericals - would they??) there's a hefty bill for the suspension maintenance schedule - quite aside from the cost of the initial conversion.

Talk to an engineer Matt, and see how they interpret that.  Perhaps they will.

Quick count I think there's at least 16 pivots/mounts that could go to uniball in an R chassis.  At ~ $100 per joint for quality replacement (no sane person would install low quality sphericals - would they??) there's a hefty bill for the suspension maintenance schedule - quite aside from the cost of the initial conversion.



I was going to approach an engineer until October 2014 when my R33 was written off in a flood. I had adjustable arms with spherical bearings on it and was a little concerned about defects.

I'll admit that if I were to do it again, I'd probably choose bushes over bearings... In hindsight the increase in NVH, the cost of replacement bearings and the stress of law enforcement attention (if engineered or not) just wasn't worth the "increased performance" (not that I could tell, I was replacing 15 year old OEM bushes with bearings, of course there was going to be a performance increase). Unless it were a dedicated track car, which I don't see my finances being good enough to handle at the moment [emoji23]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...