R34 GTT front brake disc recommendations

[viper2002]

Is there really no where that stocks R34 GTT brakes to pickup on weekends? Should I wait until next week and change the pads at the same time or just use my current rotors with the new pads?

[StevenCJR31]

Slotted/drilled rotors f&r on my 32 . .have not noticed ANY increased wear on the pads when compared to the previous non slotted/drilled rotors that were on the car before....as for locating a set of rotors... google has always worked for me

[admS15]

Just wait until next week mate. Bed the new pads in on the new rotors. Get them delivered to your door and no need to waste time on picking up.

[admS15]

Slotted/drilled rotors f&r on my 32 . .have not noticed ANY increased wear on the pads when compared to the previous non slotted/drilled rotors that were on the car before....as for locating a set of rotors... google has always worked for me

Maybe not but they don't really offer any benefit except costing a heap more. Cross drilled rotors offer a benefit but also crack in extreme conditions. Plain rotors are cheap, strong and get the job done. If you need cooling, slots will do bugger all, ducts feeding the rotor vanes are where it's at.

[StevenCJR31]

For my 32 the slotted/drilled rotors f&r +pads were under $500
and def stay cooler than stock (no brake fade like before)

[admS15]

2 hours ago, StevenCJR31 said:

For my 32 the slotted/drilled rotors f&r +pads were under $500
and def stay cooler than stock (no brake fade like before)

Would've saved 100-150 buying unslotted/drilled and done the same thing. Brake fade is caused by too much heat and boiling fluid. Slots aren't magically going to drop temps by 200 degrees. Better spending the extra $ on quality pads and fluid, they will give you much more resistance to fade than some slots but if it makes you feel better, yeah slotted rotors are great.

[StevenCJR31]

They work for me and the way i drive so im happy....they use them on touring cars so there must be something to it

[V28VX37]

Given that many cars (for instance pretty much all current HSV barges) have slotted rotors from factory I doubt it's just cosmetic...

From the DBA FAQ: http://www.dba.com.au/faqs/

Quote

Q. Why are slotted rotors better for Performance Street and Track driving?

A. Slotted rotors increase braking performance by providing better pad bite, and expelling gas and heat away from the surface of the rotor. The ‘micro-shaving’ effect of the slots also serves to de-glaze the pads, providing more even pad wear and extending the life of the rotor.

Also the DBAs have a different internal structure ('kangaroo paw') that is meant to provide improved cooling over the standard vanes. I'm sure a part this is just marketing though so take it with a grain of salt.

I totally agree with Bill above that slots are not going to magically lower your temps - ultimately the rotor is just a big heat sink and the main determinant is the amount of metal (go have a look at the rotor size on Cayennes and Touaregs etc). Obviously beyond that other things like lines/pads/fluid/cooling matter as well.

[Duncan]

10 hours ago, viper2002 said:

Is there really no where that stocks R34 GTT brakes to pickup on weekends? Should I wait until next week and change the pads at the same time or just use my current rotors with the new pads?

well you've just got to ask yourself, how many sets of R34 GTT rotors do you think any single shop sells each day...then you can see from their point of view why they only ever order them in.....

[viper2002]

Well Australia Post had completely screwed up my delivery for brake pads which I was going to pick up Friday, now I have to wait until Monday to get them, so couldn't change the brakes anyway.

After looking at the rear brake discs they definitely need to be changed, so will have to do a full overhaul. The only free time I have is on next Friday and have a track day the next day at Sandown... is that too risky / any issues with doing a full replacement and having a track day the next day?

[GTSBoy]

No, of course it's not too risky.  You'll either get it done, or something unexpected will screw you over and you won;t do the track day.  That's all.  Better than going to the track with brakes that are in poor condition.

[Little]

Can I jump in on this with a similar situation?

My girl has about 200kw at the wheels and that's all she'll ever have as I'm really happy with it. My 30th is coming up and i'm hoping do do a couple of laps around a local circuit to celebrate.

My stock rotors are F***ed and i figure if I'm going to replace them i should research as there's probably plenty better options than stock.

I agree and understand that slotted rotors chew through the pads faster ( well thinking about the physics involved of course they would )

 

Can someone can recommend a Rotor/Pad combo that is an improvement over stock, won't fade after a few laps and  is still good on the road? If they don't work well cold, they can cause an accident first thing in the morning on the street

 

Are Drilled only rotors also a negative? I imagine they help discharge heat faster, which may be good hot on a track, but...

but with less surface area for the pads to bite down on, wouldn't they give less absolute braking potential when on the road for the 'one shot' moment some F****wit on the road pulls out infront of you and makes you slam the brakes hard?

[GTSBoy]

TBH, any new rotor will do.  Don't buy cast cardboard who-flung-dung brand of course, but decent RDA or DBA stuff, even stock grade replacement, is fine.  Step up to their higher "rated" options as budget allows, keeping in mind that the benefits are not as large as the added cost.

There are an enormous number of pads you could use.  I would suggest Intima SR as being a reasonable choice.  I have them on a 100% street car and they work great.  They also stand up to a bit of track work.  If you are worried about cooling/fading at the track, you can always bodge on some clothesdryer ducting to bring some extra cooling air to them.

Drilled rotors look cool.  That's about it though.  They really don't offer anything to offset the risk of cracking.  For a car that is 99% street like yours, there can hardly be any point.  For a race car that is going to get new rotors every event or even during an event.....different story.

[admS15]

I agree with GTSBoy on the SR brake pads and would recommend plain RDA rotors. They are cheap and stand up to a reasonable amount of abuse on street and non serious track work.

[mxfly]

Have a brand new set of project mu front rotors for gtt if interested

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I never run cross drilled or slotted, increased pad wear for nothing. They are there for aesthetics only.

The whole "gas" dispersion theory was based on old style brake pads that contained asbestos. Modern pads are made from a Non-Asbestos Organic (NAO) which contains a myriad of shit (I don't know the composition) that doesn't create a gas layer.

The most important aspect is of a rotor is actually the vented/cooling channels between each rotor face, don't confuse slots and thinking it aids in cooling either.

 

[GTSBoy]

Oh, I'm sure slots still have a use in rally cars or on taxis (to clear water crossing mud from the one and machining the diamonds from underarm stinky drivers who have both feet on both pedals all the time.

[admS15]

broad minded persons>slots

 

Stupid Sau correct, meant to be slaaarts>slots

 

 

[niZmO_Man]

Slots, good at taking your money for little to no gain?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

14 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Slots, good at taking your money for little to no gain?

Not to mention now you have decreased surface area between pad and rotor.

You'll find say a T2 slotted/cross drilled rotor will perform worse than a T3 4000 plain as their cooling channels are just basic straight lines where as the T3 uses that "kangaroo paw" BS which increases surface area aiding in cooling dramatically as the rotor moves.