Need New Brake Pads and Possibly Discs

[admS15]

I think the biggest difference was made by the pads, of course the rotors and ducts would've helped a bit. If you're not regularly tracking I wouldn't bother with braided lines if your stock lines are in good nick. If you have to replace because they look suspect then definitely worth it. My 2c[emoji4]

[MatthewT85]

Just received my brake pads from Johnny today. Now just waiting on my discs to arrive

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Glad I could help

Check out adms15' video on how his SR pads performed at Sandown.. pretty damn good!

They're no Project Mu HC800 pads but they're close enough and at half the price, it's perfect for a weekend track warrior 

[admS15]

Furthermore, happy to report after a week of normal Street duties that the track day didn't effect the pads at all. Unlike other Street track pads I've used that have become noisy squeely junk after a good thrash. Sr[emoji106]

[MatthewT85]

So I've decided to install the pads and discs myself after looking at guides.
Is the caliper bolts torque spec the same for gtr as gtst? Guide says 92-118nm

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

yeah that's about right

I just torque them up to about 120nm and call it a day

[niZmO_Man]

On 10/10/2016 at 8:23 PM, admS15 said:

Furthermore, happy to report after a week of normal Street duties that the track day didn't effect the pads at all. Unlike other Street track pads I've used that have become noisy squeely junk after a good thrash. Sr

I got sent Intima SR instead of SS, they're great, Needs a couple of hits for it to warm up but perfectly driveable on the street (slow, daily driving). Once they're warm, holy shit they stop. Overkill for daily duties but works. Not that dusty either (especially compared to A1RM).

[MatthewT85]

awesome,

i think one last thing,

the brake pad paste, does it do between pad and shim, AND shim and Piston or just the pad and shim?

[Duncan]

I use it between both the pad and the shim, and the shim and the piston. anywhere that could vibrate basically

[MatthewT85]

So managed fronts yesterday. Drivers side was stuck but improvised with a clamp to get the disc off.
Tried the rears this arvo. Rear left easy.
Rear right is stuck and giving me no love. So I'll prob need to get some bolts to screw into the two holes do you guys know the specs on what I'll have to buy?

[Duncan]

m8x1.25, should be able to find them at any hardware, or re-use one you have lying around 

[KiwiRS4T]

11 hours ago, MatthewT85 said:

So managed fronts yesterday. Drivers side was stuck but improvised with a clamp to get the disc off.
Tried the rears this arvo. Rear left easy.
Rear right is stuck and giving me no love. So I'll prob need to get some bolts to screw into the two holes do you guys know the specs on what I'll have to buy?

Yes use the bolts but also bash the drums all round with a big hammer to loosen things up (assuming handbrake is not binding). You may need to clean up a bit of a lip inside the drums before you put them back (unless you have new ones).

[MatthewT85]

thanks guys ended up finding a couple of spare bolts from my top feed rail that fit the holes.  Managed all four discs and pads over the last couple of days, rain, darkness and the one stuck disc made it more than a day, as well as taking my time on the first one. but overall pretty easy job.

Thanks for your advice and esp thanks to Johnny and STT

[V28VX37]

 

On 03/10/2016 at 0:44 AM, admS15 said:

...

The car is a R33 gtst, stock sumitomo calipers, plain rda 324mm rotors with adaptors up front and rda slotted/drilled standard sized rears with sr pads all round, penrite 10 tenths fluid and stock brake lines. Small 35mm agi pipe ducts run from front bar to back of discs on front.
...

 

How are you finding the RDA's on the track Bill, any issues with the heat? Have you run DBA's before, for comparison?

I'm getting an annoying squeal (yes have added copper grease) and some shudder on the front right and trying to diagnose the cause, someone suggested the classic 'warped rotor' but will need to investigate further. My current DBA T3's have been skimmed once, there's maybe one more skim left in them, but in case I need to replacement I'm wondering if RDA's would do the job for ~60% of the price...?

[admS15]

Hi Jussi, so far so good but they've only really copped 1 hard track day. I need to put them through some more torture before I can give a decent assessment of how they cope under extreme duress. Haven't had dba before, just Nissan oem which held up well over multiple track days. I'll keep you posted in the future.@V28VX37

[admS15]

Double post

[KiwiRS4T]

On 10/3/2016 at 10:23 AM, MatthewT85 said:

Thats good to hear!, looks like the bigger disc/cooling ducts are making a big diff,

Yeah I had my Brakes go dead after 3 laps at Symmons. Im not chasing lap times, but just want something reliable.

Do you guys think its worth swapping to braided lines as im redoing pads and discs?

I think the theory with braided lines is the same as M/C stoppers: more instant reaction when you hit the brake pedal i.e. no initial flex of the bulkhead or expansion of the rubber brake lines.

[MatthewT85]

yeah i ened up not doing them, for my needs atm stock lines will be more than enough

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

If you ever a set of Hel lines, I can do them for $139 delivered for F&R

[MatthewT85]

Ha ha thanks I'll.keep that in mind