Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fix yours on the cheap and drive it till it won't drive no more. Probably a long time away.

One ballpark quote came back at 5.5k so 'on the cheap' might not happen... that's with a full reco.

Probably cheaper to replace the whole engine but not keen on having to go to VicRoads to update numbers.
That's ridiculous.. Darren Lewis was $1.5k for full reco and basic port and oil restrictors

Is that with labour to pull head off and put it back on, including all parts & new head gasket and studs?

I got a similar price from another shop for a full reco but that's just the reco only, excluding the above.

Ask around for a shop or a member who can take the head off - should only be a couple of hour's work. Clean the mating faces and if the block is fine and the head in fine or only a little bit out and the valves look ok then skim the head on a flat surface with sandpaper and bolt it up with new head gasket and studs. It should be perfectly fine for the next 100,000 and cost not a lot.

  • Like 2

Is that with labour to pull head off and put it back on, including all parts & new head gasket and studs?

I got a similar price from another shop for a full reco but that's just the reco only, excluding the above.


Nuh sorry mate that was just head work - pulled it off myself.

5.5k is absolutely ridiculous and absurd. What are they rebuilding it with? Gold plated valves and guides. Assuming 1k-1200 for head reco, 5-600 for gaskets and studs. That makes 1800. So are they saying 3700 in labour cost.  Lol. I suggest you get quotes from a different mechanic/workshop and maybe start looking at smaller (not big named places) and specify you don't want head reco unless it is absolutely necessary.

Question, are you willing to get your hands dirty, you could potentially save thousands.

 



option 1. Remove hot and cold sides and have towed to shop. Save $ on labor.



option 2. As above minus tow to shop and try enlist the help of a local SAU member to help you remove the head. Then take it to head shop for inspection/skim $80-100. Clean, re assemble with new gasket and studs.



option 3. Pay the ridiculous 5.5k (I would rather go jump in a lake)



Option 4. Burn it. Lol

 

Where abouts are you located? 



5.5k is absolutely ridiculous and absurd. What are they rebuilding it with? Gold plated valves and guides. Assuming 1k-1200 for head reco, 5-600 for gaskets and studs. That makes 1800. So are they saying 3700 in labour cost.  Lol. I suggest you get quotes from a different mechanic/workshop and maybe start looking at smaller (not big named places) and specify you don't want head reco unless it is absolutely necessary.
Question, are you willing to get your hands dirty, you could potentially save thousands.
 


option 1. Remove hot and cold sides and have towed to shop. Save $ on labor.


option 2. As above minus tow to shop and try enlist the help of a local SAU member to help you remove the head. Then take it to head shop for inspection/skim $80-100. Clean, re assemble with new gasket and studs.


option 3. Pay the ridiculous 5.5k (I would rather go jump in a lake)


Option 4. Burn it. Lol
 
Where abouts are you located? 



Thanks Bill :)

That was just a ballpark quite from one workshop, I am still waiting on two more. I will most likely take it to my normal place for a more detailed assessment, want to be 100% certain it's the gasket before ripping off the head.

Going to a smaller workshop might be an idea, would need to find a reputable one though and one that is not ridiculously busy. I'm in the inner North near Essendon so north and west tend to work better than south-east.

I am happy to do some of the work myself but will need a full diagnosis first by someone who actually knows what they're doing. I was looking up DIY engine swap instructions last night, now that'd be a fun project for a month ;)

Ok. Lets see what the other 2 quotes come in at and take it from there. I have a very good local mechanic that I trust and would recommend but is in the south east. If you get no joy from these other guys, I may just call him and get a ballpark figure for you.

  • Like 1

DIY it man, local cylinder shop here charged one of the trak-life cars $270 to lightly skim the head and install new valve springs.. we took off and supplied the head to them with valve seals, springs.

 

  • Like 2

For significantly less than the 5k quote you.got im getting a full service. Some porting on the exhaust side. Chemically clean, repair cam tunnel, surface grind, vct feed port drilled, valve Springs installed, then an engine block decked to 0 deck height. Bored, mains closed and honed, crank collar fitted. Crank crack tested and grind. And a few other bits and peices

Yet that's just the machining work on my new motor I'll be building it.
However as a workshop prob around 300ish for the head to be cleaned up, 300ish for a vrs and wouldn't be more than 800 in labour, so yeah anything over 1.5 and your getting seriously ripped

Thanks guys.

Second quote is in the 2.5-3k range. The headwork including reco is sub 1k, plus parts. A lot of the cost is still labour so would be substantially cheaper if I pulled it out myself but I do want it done right.

Here's the current plan:

  1. Pressure test oil/water exchanger to rule that out.
  2. Leakdown test to confirm it's the HG.
  3. Pull out head, inspect & measure. Skim and reco only if necessary.
  4. Inspect & measure bottom end. If major issues skip head work and replace engine.
  5. Install head with new HG (I'll see what type they recommend) and new studs. 

Earliest I can book it in is in about a week.

Maybe a cheap my-loss-your-gain well built 25/30 stroker pops up in the classifieds in the meantime lol (as if)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.
    • Has anyone used > https://performancecoating.com.au/  
    • Haha actually I did join back then under a different email address,  I couldn't re-activate my account so made a new one! I didn't post much anyway so not missing out on much. Amazing to see how the value of the cars and parts has changed over the years, also ACT section appears to be dead now. 
    • Thanks... It's in pretty good condition overall, probably due to not being drifted/tuned however being a daily driver has taken its toll. Had 100k on the clock when I got it, up to 180k now. Unfortunately it's not 100% dent free, it's got a small dent on FLH side and broken indicator from where I hit a small kangaroo at high speed. If you look at closely at pic #5 you might spot the dodgy trailer light repair my old man and I rigged up as temporary repair! - It's still there due to a combo of needing the car as daily driver and then too lazy/busy to fix properly. I've a couple of other minor accidents accidents as well but nothing major. One required a new front bar and unfortunately the smash repairer ordered the normal gtst one and not the aero bar. Needed the car back asap so just went with it, regretted ever since.
    • I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.  
×
×
  • Create New...