Blown Neo head gasket - Next steps?

[admS15]

That's a lot better. I still reckon diy is the way to go. Oem gasket, arp studs. Save the 2-2.5k for other improvements, upgrades, track day fees etc. At least do a bit of research in what's involved. It's not that hard, just time consuming.

[V28VX37]

  On 05/10/2016 at 9:05 AM, GTSBoy said:

There's a few things that I would do if I got the engine into that many pieces.  Better valve springs is one of them.  Some thought put into the oil pump/drive would be another.  Worth a thought while it is accessible.

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Cheers mate, definitely valve springs.

The hope is that the bottom end stays in the car, I thought the oil pump was an engine-out job?

[V28VX37]

  On 05/10/2016 at 9:06 AM, admS15 said:

That's a lot better. I still reckon diy is the way to go. Oem gasket, arp studs. Save the 2-2.5k for other improvements, upgrades, track day fees etc. At least do a bit of research in what's involved. It's not that hard, just time consuming.

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Cheers Bill. Just reading through some threads, it is a big job, I didn't realise the whole hot side, timing gear etc. has to come off too:

• http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238753-head-gasket-install-on-rb26-how-hard-is-it-diy/?do=findComment&comment=4173497
• http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14388-cylinder-head-removal-any-tips/

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

  On 05/10/2016 at 9:08 AM, V28VX37 said:

Cheers mate, definitely valve springs.

The hope is that the bottom end stays in the car, I thought the oil pump was an engine-out job?

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Can be done with motor held up by gearbox and gearbox on some form of stand as well as those on strut top engine stands (don't know what they're called) then drop the x member followed by the sump.

Easier motor out lol

[Scott Black]

If I'm changing the oil pump on an rb chances are its also getting new bearings as a minimum so it's just so much easier to work on out of the car.and really compares to supporting the motor it's the same time.to just pull the engine out. Yet I have workshop acess so that changes things alot

[GTSBoy]

I think once the head is off the block comes out with only an hour's work! 90% of the connections are to the head.

[AngryRB]

If were mine, id not bother with oil pumps and springs etc, id skim head and have inspected, then slap the lot on a running RB30 bottom end. 

RB30- $300 , modding for tensioner, belt, pwr steer bracket, slot mounts- $200 , vct and shave head $200, oem gaskets and bolts - $300

Also take the engine and box out in one go would be quicker.

 

 

Edited October 5, 2016 by AngryRB

[Scott Black]

I guess an important question is actually what are the long term plans, as any of the options listed when not diy become very expensive very quickly, so if you don't have any major plans for big power in the forceable future just get it checked out properly and fix the issues it has without upgrading everything if however you want to mod it and make decent power then it's going to get expensive yet it's best to start now so not paying twice

[V28VX37]

  On 05/10/2016 at 9:27 PM, Scott Black said:

I guess an important question is actually what are the long term plans, as any of the options listed when not diy become very expensive very quickly, so if you don't have any major plans for big power in the forceable future just get it checked out properly and fix the issues it has without upgrading everything if however you want to mod it and make decent power then it's going to get expensive yet it's best to start now so not paying twice

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Now this is the $10,000 question, spot on.

This car started as a family car and then steered towards a cheap track car. It's been a decent family car and ok on the track but never cheap.

Whilst I'd love to have a scary 400rwkw monster, I'd pick a reliable 300rwkw over that any day.

Reliable and balanced 400rwkw would mean forged bottom end, new injectors, new fuel system, new turbo, new intercooler, then the clutch is going to so new clutch, probably tail and drive shafts, and potentially some new gearbox internals. Then a flex fuel setup so a new ECU and 2x full tune. New brakes too, and to get those in, new bigger wheels x2 sets, one for the street and another for the track. That's 20-25k gone easy. At that point, if really chasing times, the better deal would be to sell and buy a properly sorted mildly built Evo, it's just the quicker platform.

Plus frankly, the car is currently not the limiting factor in the least (besides reliability) - it's the driver. All I really need is more seat time, with the hope that I wouldn't need to keep on fixing the thing after every single outing like I've had to this year.

So the short answer is, just fixing it properly without major upgrades is probably the way to go.

[V28VX37]

Very little progress. First quote was too expensive, second quote ok but very busy so still haven't been able to book the car in, third quote never got back to me. Sigh.

Any recommendations for workshops or mechanics in Melb who a) can do this b) want to do this c) are not crazy busy and d) don't charge an arm and a leg?

Tough ask I know. PM's welcome of you don't want to promote in public.

[Hadouken]

Good workshops are busy. It's just the way it is.

Are you asking to just get the head gasket done? Or talking about doing that other stuff aswell?

[V28VX37]

  On 10/10/2016 at 6:44 AM, Hadouken said:

Good workshops are busy. It's just the way it is.

Are you asking to just get the head gasket done? Or talking about doing that other stuff aswell?

Yeah very true.

Looking at doing the list above ie. confirm it's the HG and then go from there.

[Hadouken]

It would be cheaper if you just do the hg

[blah_blah]

What workshop's have you gone too already?

 

I may have a recommendation for an actual workshop and also a cashie

 

PM me if you want 

[V28VX37]

  On 03/10/2016 at 1:01 AM, V28VX37 said:

...
In terms of rad this has been recommended but it's not exactly cheap: http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/mishimoto-nissan-skyline-r34-performance-aluminum-radiator.html

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  On 03/10/2016 at 1:29 AM, WMDC35 said:

I've been using one of those radiators for about 5 years, no issues

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Does anyone have thoughts on the benefits of a Mishimoto/Koyo Racing/similar rad over a basic Cooling Pro from Just Jap? http://justjap.com/engine/cooling/radiators/cooling-pro-alloy-radiator-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-stagea-rb25-rb26.html

As far as I can see both are triple core 40mm drop-in replacements but the Mishimoto is twice the price of the Cooling Pro.

[GTSBoy]

Mishimoto are better.....but the cheapies also work.  Does that help?

[admS15]

I vote cheapies. EBay spec ftw.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

eBay ones work okay, if money permits get a better one however I ran a Worley one for years on the track only ever boiled coolant on warmer days.

However since I've gone to a PWR one I haven't seen the water temp move past 100 degrees on the track.

[V28VX37]

I went with the Mishimoto hoping that the fitment is a bit better. Paying workshop labour you'll easily lose any savings as soon as you have to muck around during the install.

Ordered some OEM rad hoses too just as a precaution.

[V28VX37]

Head is off finally and good news is that pistons and bores look ok plus block is straight. Head is at the engine shop now, should know more on Monday.