Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's a lot better. I still reckon diy is the way to go. Oem gasket, arp studs. Save the 2-2.5k for other improvements, upgrades, track day fees etc. At least do a bit of research in what's involved. It's not that hard, just time consuming.

Just now, GTSBoy said:

There's a few things that I would do if I got the engine into that many pieces.  Better valve springs is one of them.  Some thought put into the oil pump/drive would be another.  Worth a thought while it is accessible.

Cheers mate, definitely valve springs.

The hope is that the bottom end stays in the car, I thought the oil pump was an engine-out job?

27 minutes ago, admS15 said:

That's a lot better. I still reckon diy is the way to go. Oem gasket, arp studs. Save the 2-2.5k for other improvements, upgrades, track day fees etc. At least do a bit of research in what's involved. It's not that hard, just time consuming.

Cheers Bill. Just reading through some threads, it is a big job, I didn't realise the whole hot side, timing gear etc. has to come off too:

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Cheers mate, definitely valve springs.

The hope is that the bottom end stays in the car, I thought the oil pump was an engine-out job?

Can be done with motor held up by gearbox and gearbox on some form of stand as well as those on strut top engine stands (don't know what they're called) then drop the x member followed by the sump.

Easier motor out lol

If I'm changing the oil pump on an rb chances are its also getting new bearings as a minimum so it's just so much easier to work on out of the car.and really compares to supporting the motor it's the same time.to just pull the engine out. Yet I have workshop acess so that changes things alot

  • Like 1

If were mine, id not bother with oil pumps and springs etc, id skim head and have inspected, then slap the lot on a running RB30 bottom end. 

RB30- $300 , modding for tensioner, belt, pwr steer bracket, slot mounts- $200 , vct and shave head $200, oem gaskets and bolts - $300

Also take the engine and box out in one go would be quicker.

 

 

Edited by AngryRB
  • Like 1

I guess an important question is actually what are the long term plans, as any of the options listed when not diy become very expensive very quickly, so if you don't have any major plans for big power in the forceable future just get it checked out properly and fix the issues it has without upgrading everything if however you want to mod it and make decent power then it's going to get expensive yet it's best to start now so not paying twice

1 hour ago, Scott Black said:

I guess an important question is actually what are the long term plans, as any of the options listed when not diy become very expensive very quickly, so if you don't have any major plans for big power in the forceable future just get it checked out properly and fix the issues it has without upgrading everything if however you want to mod it and make decent power then it's going to get expensive yet it's best to start now so not paying twice

Now this is the $10,000 question, spot on.

This car started as a family car and then steered towards a cheap track car. It's been a decent family car and ok on the track but never cheap.

Whilst I'd love to have a scary 400rwkw monster, I'd pick a reliable 300rwkw over that any day.

Reliable and balanced 400rwkw would mean forged bottom end, new injectors, new fuel system, new turbo, new intercooler, then the clutch is going to so new clutch, probably tail and drive shafts, and potentially some new gearbox internals. Then a flex fuel setup so a new ECU and 2x full tune. New brakes too, and to get those in, new bigger wheels x2 sets, one for the street and another for the track. That's 20-25k gone easy. At that point, if really chasing times, the better deal would be to sell and buy a properly sorted mildly built Evo, it's just the quicker platform.

Plus frankly, the car is currently not the limiting factor in the least (besides reliability) - it's the driver. All I really need is more seat time, with the hope that I wouldn't need to keep on fixing the thing after every single outing like I've had to this year.

So the short answer is, just fixing it properly without major upgrades is probably the way to go.

  • Like 1

Very little progress. First quote was too expensive, second quote ok but very busy so still haven't been able to book the car in, third quote never got back to me. Sigh.

Any recommendations for workshops or mechanics in Melb who a) can do this b) want to do this c) are not crazy busy and d) don't charge an arm and a leg?

Tough ask I know. PM's welcome of you don't want to promote in public.

Good workshops are busy. It's just the way it is.

Are you asking to just get the head gasket done? Or talking about doing that other stuff aswell?

Yeah very true.

Looking at doing the list above ie. confirm it's the HG and then go from there.
On 03/10/2016 at 0:01 PM, V28VX37 said:

...
In terms of rad this has been recommended but it's not exactly cheap: http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/mishimoto-nissan-skyline-r34-performance-aluminum-radiator.html

 

On 03/10/2016 at 0:29 PM, WMDC35 said:

I've been using one of those radiators for about 5 years, no issues

 

Does anyone have thoughts on the benefits of a Mishimoto/Koyo Racing/similar rad over a basic Cooling Pro from Just Jap? http://justjap.com/engine/cooling/radiators/cooling-pro-alloy-radiator-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-stagea-rb25-rb26.html

As far as I can see both are triple core 40mm drop-in replacements but the Mishimoto is twice the price of the Cooling Pro.

eBay ones work okay, if money permits get a better one however I ran a Worley one for years on the track only ever boiled coolant on warmer days.

However since I've gone to a PWR one I haven't seen the water temp move past 100 degrees on the track.

  • Like 1

I went with the Mishimoto hoping that the fitment is a bit better. Paying workshop labour you'll easily lose any savings as soon as you have to muck around during the install.

Ordered some OEM rad hoses too just as a precaution.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end a made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
    • As someone who has pineapples, and horrible axle tramp... should I change these to collars? Is that what you're saying here? Why did you choose these instead of getting pineapples where you said you had good experiences of? I'd love to even attempt to get rid of axle tramp, I either get complete bogginess or absolute insane wheelspin, anything even remotely in between results in filling-removal axle tramp, to the point where launching the car is just not something I do.
    • Lucky for that, because putting ethanol in fuel only lowers the bulk cost of fuel if it's in 91 Add it to 98, 85% of it even and it quintuples in price. Strange physics. f**k you United, Gouging c***ts.
    • Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
×
×
  • Create New...